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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) Rock Climbing


Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Access Requirement and History

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges.

Don't be selfish--get a permit or climb elsewhere.



In May 2011, after privilege abuse by climbers, Roadside was closed to all access. In March 2015, the area reopened as Graining Fork Nature Preserve (GFNP) with access limited to users obtaining a required daily permit and a suggested donation.

While obtaining the daily permit, it is suggested to make a small donation to show appreciation for the area being open and to help with costs associated with maintaining the preserve. If you have a problem with making a donation, consider that people routinely pay upwards of $10 for a movie at the theater and that only lasts two hours. Here, climbers get access to amazing routes for an entire day for $5 or $10 per person. What a deal!

Climbers should be on their utmost best behavior at GFNP. This includes not blasting music, packing your poop and toilet paper out, leashing dogs and being respectful of the area. Treat it like you would your own backyard.
Added on 5/4/2015 by Jason Halladay
Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Description

Roadside could be called the flagship crag of the RRG. It boasts sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+. It has a high concentration of easier routes and a good concentration of 5.10 sport and 5.12 sport along a wonderfully pocketed south facing wall.

GFNP is privately owned by climbers and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.

Getting There

Follow hwy 11 into Wolfe County. Look for a developed parking/picnic area on the right side of the road. The trail leading up to the wall is across the road from the parking area. Look for the brown "Graining Fork Nature Preserve" sign at the start of the trail. You did remember your daily permit, right? If not, The Zoo is a fun area on the same side of the highway as the parking and will likely be much less crowded.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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On 10/14 at approx. 4 PM a group of climbers at roadside crag next to us had dogs and beer in violation of the posted rules. The property owner came out and upon seeing this there was an exchange which resulted in her taking all of their gear (rope, shoes, backpack). One guy tried to grab his gear and refused to let it be taken and was nearly pushed off the side of the steep drop behind him. While this was happening a climber was left stranded on his route at the anchors. A man from another group helped him repel down. I can confidently say that anyone who witnessed this unpleasant exchange would agree that we will likely lose this crag. I saw two groups drinking in direct violation and walking out I saw another climber with a dog entering. There was no attempt by other climbers to police this. Oct 16, 2017
TaylorP  
I forgot my stick clip about 3 weeks ago. Someone said it was leaning against the sign in the parking lot. Heading back to the Red today, has anyone seen it? Jun 4, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
iclimegud wrote:Went the last 2 weekends and groups are arriving with dogs and without permits. The property manager is making trips daily and kicking out those without a permit. They are not being rude about it, even suggesting the parties find a cell signal, get a permit, and come back the same day.
Damn, that makes my blood boil. Simple, easy rules to follow for some great climbing and climbers can't even do that. Once again, climbers are proving they are their own worst enemies. Apr 5, 2017
Went the last 2 weekends and groups are arriving with dogs and without permits. The property manager is making trips daily and kicking out those without a permit. They are not being rude about it, even suggesting the parties find a cell signal, get a permit, and come back the same day.

Please please please make the effort to get a permit. Not doing so will only cause access issues and make our community look bad.

grainingfork.org/newpermit/ Apr 5, 2017
What is slab wall??? It's closed tomorrow according to redriverclimbing but I can't find what routes are on this magical slab wall? Anyone know? Thanks! Apr 8, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
We went on a Saturday in April this year and got our permits a week in advance. We hoped the permit system might limit the crowds but it was mighty damn busy (it was a Saturday after all so that makes sense). It's not clear to me if there's a daily limit or not. Nov 17, 2015
Has it been hard to get a permit for roadside? Wondering how far ahead of time you need to get one and how much they are limiting the crowds? Nov 17, 2015
Please donate when you register to climb at Graining Fork!! The landowners are actively monitoring donations per climber, and a little bit goes a long way. May 14, 2015
A0hero
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI
Reopened, but make sure to get a permit!!!
here: grainingfork.org/gate-acces…
Or here (without donation):
grainingfork.org/reservations/ Apr 30, 2015
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
Still closed as of 1/5/15 Jan 5, 2015
I am planning a trip to the Red in a few weeks (Mid October). I am trying to discern if roadside crag is still closed... can anyone tell me. Thanks! Sep 24, 2014
No Apr 18, 2014
Is Roadside open again? I am heading to the Red at the end of October (first time in 4 years) and a trip to the red is not complete without a run up roadside attraction.

Thanks! Aug 23, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
Probably never as long as there are dummies still ticking routes on this site. Sep 18, 2012
Craig Nelson
sioux city, iowa
Craig Nelson   sioux city, iowa
Any rumors on when it will be reopening? Feb 8, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
redriverclimbing.com/viewto…

Roadside has been CLOSED due to poor behavior by climbers- please respect the closure and wait until it is open before returning! May 24, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Really? Parking GPS? Nov 15, 2010
Bobrunning Running
Madison, wi
Bobrunning Running   Madison, wi
Parking - latitude 37.73335 longitude 83.65913 Oct 31, 2010

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