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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: M Williams, C. Tabor, 1990
Page Views: 2,788 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Description

A short pitch, but the whole thing is good. THe brevity of it is mitigated by the chance to climb it, AWOL, and Crazy Fingers all back-to-back, for 150 feet of great climbing, all at ~ the same grade and character.

Just a few feet right of A.W.O.L. is a second climb of a similar grade, perhaps a shave harder. Your success on this climb is dependent on having some finger strength, and on finding and using some thin footholds. The monos are not 'hangers' because you have good feet to hold your weight, they are just for holding you in, so the stress is not incredible. The route also gets easier as you progress.

Location

After the approach to Roadside Wall, stay right and as soon as you come under a bulge and into the main wall amphitheatre, you will see 3 sport routes in close proximity on a bulging wall to your left. Dragon Slayer is the center of the three and can be distinguished by the two "mono" pockets about 5 meters up.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Be careful clipping the second bolt- it is best to climb an extra move and clip from the good hold than to hang out below and pull extra slack.

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Photos

ziggy  
I didn't find the mono moves to be all that hard, I only used one of the two and the feet were really good. That being said this is the first 5.10 to spit me off in a long time. My ego convinced me to go for the anchors where i quickly took to the skies. Oct 21, 2009
Ladd

  5.10d
Ladd    
  5.10d
Make sure you warm up your tendons if this climb is pushing your limit, the monos are demanding. Jun 7, 2007
426
426  
Classic pocket pulling, very popular Apr 2, 2007
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
I think this is the least in quality of the three (four) tens. There is a danger of decking if you don't pick the right clipping holds at the second bolt. Nov 14, 2006