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Milkin' the Chicken
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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A.W.O.L S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Battle of the Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chunnel S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Crazyfingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jump For Joy S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mantel Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Motha T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Over Yonder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Release the Kraken S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ro Shamlo V5- 6C |
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Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rosetta Phone Home V3 6A |
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Runnin' Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Science Friction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stay the Hand (Direct Start) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trouble Clef S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.73151, -83.65679 |
| FA: | Mark Williams 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,173 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 11, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit
Details
Description
This climb was rated 5.11a in 1991, but I broke some holds off it in an early ascent as did many others. This has become harder due to those deteriorating holds. I suspect (hope) that the climb has become more stable, however.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.
Location
Take the right-hand fork of the approach trail to encounter this climb on your left as you first reach the cliff base. This is just left of the flat overhanging wall housing a row of more popular sport-climbs such as AWOL and Dragon Slayer.
Protection
A few draws and a sling for a chicken-head. There is a runout up top on easier ground to the anchors.
Permit Required
This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.
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