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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Tal Shutkin
Page Views: 297 total, 23/month
Shared By: Justin Griggs on Oct 23, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Description

With incredible iron rails all throughout this cave, one can imagine this region as a sort of Rosetta Stone for an alien language, giving the problem it's name. Take time to marvel at the beautiful geology of this region while you're climbing.

Start with your hands on the X's marked on the photo and feet on the circles, straddling the feature that juts out from the wall. Thrust up to a fairly large pocket above your head, then continue to ride the network of iron rails, with holds ranging from large pockets to sharp crimps, with a notable absence of good foot holds after the first two moves.

Traverse right along the line to a large pocket about 6 feet from the roof crack, match your hands and begin the crux moves. Drop the feet or figure 4 and twist around, reaching for a crimpy hold, then do a final push to reach the roof crack, ending the problem.

Overall, a very fun problem in an awesome overhung cave.

Location

Located near the far end of right side of Roadside Crag, this route is in the cave with the start of the 5.13a "Chunnel." From the point of view of looking into the cave from the trail, "Rosetta" is off to the left, starting on the fairly obvious piece of rock jutting out from the wall.

Protection

2-3 Crash Pads and/or a good spotter

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This problem is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Photos

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