Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: R. Turan & M. Williams, 1990
Page Views: 4,033 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


226 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

A steep climb with mostly good holds, but little good rest. None of the moves are particularly hard, but the route is pumpy, making the clips up top harder than the other two routes, but perhaps this is the best warm-up, for lack of hard moves down low.

Location

After the approach to Roadside Wall, stay right and as soon as you come under a bulge and into the main wall amphitheatre, you will see 3 sport routes in close proximity on a bulging wall to your left. Crazy Fingers is the right-most of the three fully bolted routes and can be distinguished by the larger pockets, compared to AWOL, which has more edges, and Dragonslayer, which has 2 monos before the 2nd bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
All of the tens on this wall felt about the same difficulty, but this one was slightly more resistant climbing. Great warmups for the classics around the corner. May 16, 2016
Noah Betz
Cleveland, OH
  5.10c
Noah Betz   Cleveland, OH
  5.10c
The anchor bolts are just far enough out and to the right that cleaning on rap is annoying, I would recommend lowering to clean this one Nov 19, 2018