Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: porter jarrard, mike norman, 1992.
Page Views: 7,456 total · 54/month
Shared By: max seigal on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


119 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Begin on a short flake and slab up to a roof. Bust through the roof then climb about 65 more feet on overhanging pockets.

Location

walk past the wet amplitheater, around a corner to a bolted line on the left of a crack below a massive pocketed face.

Protection

12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
super classic, love the no hands rests, bat hanging etc.... Nov 15, 2007
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is sooo sick that I stopped at Roadside Crag to use this as a warmup for climbs at other areas. This is jug hauling at it's best and the whip at the top should you choose to take it is fairly large(similar to Tuna Town) at the Lode. I hope roadside is opened next time I go back so I can do this route again!!!! Jan 14, 2012
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11d
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.11d
Amazing route and best of the grade that I've been on at the red. While it is mostly a jug haul what separates it from most other climbs is the variety of movement and hold positions. Underclings and pinches with great thumb catches will see you to the top. The only minor detractors are a wet start and one damp hold in the roof. Don't miss this route! May 22, 2015
This thing just doesn't end! Super fun, tough pocket climb, although I would certainly not call it a jug haul. Like most of the Red, many of the holds are only good if you use them a certain way, and not necessarily the way you think you should at first. STICK CLIP, since the start is muddy and wet, and be aware that the jug in the first roof is damp and gross. Also, THERE ARE TWELVE BOLTS on this climb. Jun 2, 2015
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
I found this was a great route to practice sequencing (as I certainly had to in order to red point.)

I also would rarely upgrade a climb, but if I were to, I'd probably pick this (at 12a) and Crown of Thorns (at 11d vs. 11c) out of everything I tried at the Red. Apr 18, 2017
Brant Hysell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Brant Hysell   Cincinnati, OH
 
WOW. Best route I have climbed in the Red. Mega Classic. Apr 28, 2018
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.12a/b
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.12a/b
This thing is the sickness... what an adventure! Love the double toejam liedown rest at the top! I was worked to begin with from a Ro Shampo session, but this thing ate me up. Would imagine stringing the whole thing together for an RP would be at least 12a. Aug 28, 2018