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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: porter jarrard, mike norman, 1992.
Page Views: 5,974 total, 48/month
Shared By: max seigal on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Begin on a short flake and slab up to a roof. Bust through the roof then climb about 65 more feet on overhanging pockets.

Location

walk past the wet amplitheater, around a corner to a bolted line on the left of a crack below a massive pocketed face.

Protection

12 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
I found this was a great route to practice sequencing (as I certainly had to in order to red point.)

I also would rarely upgrade a climb, but if I were to, I'd probably pick this (at 12a) and Crown of Thorns (at 11d vs. 11c) out of everything I tried at the Red. Apr 18, 2017
This thing just doesn't end! Super fun, tough pocket climb, although I would certainly not call it a jug haul. Like most of the Red, many of the holds are only good if you use them a certain way, and not necessarily the way you think you should at first. STICK CLIP, since the start is muddy and wet, and be aware that the jug in the first roof is damp and gross. Also, THERE ARE TWELVE BOLTS on this climb. Jun 2, 2015
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11d
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.11d
Amazing route and best of the grade that I've been on at the red. While it is mostly a jug haul what separates it from most other climbs is the variety of movement and hold positions. Underclings and pinches with great thumb catches will see you to the top. The only minor detractors are a wet start and one damp hold in the roof. Don't miss this route! May 22, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is sooo sick that I stopped at Roadside Crag to use this as a warmup for climbs at other areas. This is jug hauling at it's best and the whip at the top should you choose to take it is fairly large(similar to Tuna Town) at the Lode. I hope roadside is opened next time I go back so I can do this route again!!!! Jan 14, 2012
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
super classic, love the no hands rests, bat hanging etc.... Nov 15, 2007