Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA: G Stevens, TR. FFA: T Crabtree, J Ashley, after bolting.
Page Views: 1,618 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Description

Start on top of a boulder at the base of the rock and pull on to the face- clipping 4 bolts along the way to a long ledge with trees and a bolted anchor for a belay/rap. This route is probably harder for shorter people, but not obscenely so.

Location

Just left of Roadside Attraction, a large boulder sits almost against the rock and just below a line of bolts, which is Jump For Joy.

Protection

4 clips to an anchor.

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Photos

Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
It's harder if you go straight up (but just to the right) at the 4th bolt. A lot of people cheat left to "easier" ground, but you're risking a pendulum fall and it is very hard to clip the bolt making for an even greater fall potential.

I have not climbed this route in a long time, but last time I did it, it needed new anchors. Oct 11, 2006
The start is stellar and the diversity of jugs and blank wall in the middle make it exciting, and I feel, revealing of three stars. Apr 12, 2010
Jack Br
  5.9+ PG13
Jack Br  
  5.9+ PG13
Good pockets. The boulder created a huge decking problem if your belay is wandering or a lot lighter than you.
around the fourth bolt the pockets start to disappear Jun 18, 2011
Bryan Benwaahh
Austin, TX
 
Bryan Benwaahh   Austin, TX
 
Noticed this has a lock on the first bolt hanger, not sure exactly why. All of the bolts were rock solid, anchors were fine. Likely locked due to the potential to deck before the second clip, perhaps they'd rather you stick clip #2 before pulling on. Oct 17, 2016