Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Smith 2010
Page Views: 1,465 total · 13/month
Shared By: Forestvonsinkafinger on Apr 12, 2010 with improvements by Billy Simek
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details


Start by standing on the rock pile, or make it a possible 5.13b by beginning at the apex of the back of the cave. Then follow the bolt line through the center of the cave as the sharp flares burn your fingers and drain your tank. At the end, get the "JUG" and clip, take a deep breath and pull out over the roof. Then follow about 20 feet of seemingly steep slab and open hand. Beware of crumbly rock and chalk X it when you can.


Around the corner from "You can Tune a Piano..." there is an obvious cave. Look for bolts up the center of the cave.


Seven bolts to anchor, well protected though bouldering pad may prove mentally comforting

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.


Forestvonsinkafinger   Iowa
The route was a two star because although I failed on it this trip I thought it was fun, Ellington's guidebook gave it one star...finish it and let us know what you think. Apr 12, 2010
Hanover, NH
ChrisHau   Hanover, NH
The true crux of this route is on the headwall, with a sharp little boulder problem heading to the anchors. Harder than any move on the low section, and definitely not a ‘slab’. Nov 5, 2017
The FA was also Lee Smith Dec 12, 2017