Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Lee Smith 2010
Page Views: 2,963 total · 17/month
Shared By: Forestvonsinkafinger on Apr 12, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start by standing on the rock pile, or make it a possible 5.13b by beginning at the apex of the back of the cave. Then follow the bolt line through the center of the cave as the sharp flares burn your fingers and drain your tank. At the end, get the "JUG" and clip, take a deep breath and pull out over the roof. Then follow about 20 feet of seemingly steep slab and open hand. Beware of crumbly rock and chalk X it when you can.

Location Suggest change

Around the corner from "You can Tune a Piano..." there is an obvious cave. Look for bolts up the center of the cave.

Protection Suggest change

Seven bolts to anchor, well protected though bouldering pad may prove mentally comforting

Permit Required Suggest change

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

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