Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Erik Kloeker; Billy Simek, 2018
Page Views: 301 total · 58/month
Shared By: DrRockso on Oct 20, 2018
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Start directly underneath the Roadside waterfall, pulling a roof move off the tombstone to begin, and climbing through a few tricky sequences to reach a no hands rest. From the no hands, set sail for an overhanging thug fest out one of the steepest parts of the amphitheater. Choose your holds wisely and "Unleash the Beast" as you vie for the chains, on what has proven to be a heart-breaker finish for many.

10 bolts currently permadrawed, bring a couple draws with you if you wish to clip the unnecessary bolts.

Location

Start in the amphitheater underneath the roadside waterfall, the route is marked with a large tombstone, cheater stone. Located right of Way Up Yonder/Sand, and left of Return of Chris Snyder.

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

Eric Hirst
  5.12-
Eric Hirst  
  5.12-
Very fun climbing with a bonus water feature. Will become classic after a bit more traffic cleans up the sometimes friable holds.

If you wish to avoid the bonus water feature, tram in on your way down and clip your end of the rope to some of the upper permadraws. Don't say you weren't warned! Nov 7, 2018