Type: Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Link, John Wishman, June 1989
Page Views: 1,292 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chad Wagner on Apr 12, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

This climb starts on the ledge above Jump For Joy. From the repel station on the ledge step right 5 feet around the bush and look up for a single bolt. This bolt is 15 feet off of the ledge. Right in front of your face is a small horizontal crack where a Yellow Metolius TCU will fit perfect. I hope you didn't forget the long runners. From here grab a couple holds and step up onto the slab, its a good stance so you can clip the bolt. After the clip shoot up and left, aiming for the best holds. Fight through the search for hidden holds and a small wire placement just for motivation. Slab up to a scoop and find another small cam placement take a deep breath your almost through the worst of it. Step right and up to a small roof where another small TCU placement can be found. Climb just left of the roof and up to a cool rail mantel and another mid range cam. Step up and into the alcove where some suspect pro is. Take the line of least resistance to the left and up out the small roof and head for the top on surprisingly strong patina rock where a bolted belay station is.

Location

From the approach trail up to Roadside Attraction take a climbers left around the rouded arete untill you arrive at a triangle boulder. The climb Jump for Joy starts here. Climb this sport climb to the anchors and continue past on gear to the ledge with bolted belay

Protection

A small rack of TCU's and some mid range cams. Single sling every placement to reduce rope drag.

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