Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Woodhouse - 1997
Page Views: 2,253 total · 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


104 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Challenging face climbing with a short crux section about midway.

Starting on a slabby section, balance your way to the first bolt about 15' up. Work through crimpy features up to a slightly overhanging crux; good footwork will put you in a position to throw for a nice jug. Continue up the face to the anchors.

Location

Starts just right of C Sharp or B Flat.

Protection

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Needs chains at the top. Lots of rope drag, lowering. Oct 25, 2008
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
Agree about chains.

Also, as of 2/7/09, spinning bolt hangar on either last or second to last bolt, can't remember exactly which. Feb 18, 2009
Adam Love
  5.10b
Adam Love  
  5.10b
As of 6/30/09 Bolt still spun - agree about drag and need to replace bolt. Jan 18, 2010
Kevin Heist
Ypsilanti, MI
  5.10b
Kevin Heist   Ypsilanti, MI
  5.10b
I noticed 2 loose bolt hangers on this route. I don't remember exactly which but they were mid-route. Apr 9, 2012
DaveBaker
Durham, NC
DaveBaker   Durham, NC
Chains are TERRIBLE. I was the belayer, not the climber on this one, but they are corroded very significantly. We left gear to rap off. Aug 25, 2015
Jesse Via
Oxford, Ohio
 
Jesse Via   Oxford, Ohio
 
New bolts at the top, still a fair amount of drag lowering. Old chains looked like they were in good shape though Nov 14, 2017