Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches
FA: G. Smith, R. Snider
Page Views: 46,984 total · 220/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit DetailsDrop down

Permit Required Suggest change

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description Suggest change

A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge with bolted anchor for optional belay. Then jam, stem, and lieback past to the top to another bolted anchor/belay.

Protection Suggest change

This crack protects extremely well. Doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful if topping out. There is a bolted belay anchor about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. There's another bolted anchor at the top (where folks used to belay and rappel off slings around a tree.)
Rap the route with a single 60m rope but tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Location Suggest change

The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.