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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: R. Snider, J. Bronaugh, 1984
Page Views: 7,087 total, 52/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Great climb in the dry season, but can get a little damp in the wet ones. Start on easy moves to get into a huge corner with a handcrack. Jam and stem up the crack through sustained moves to reach the top. Belay and rap from webbing on trees, and if still present after all of these years, a small stopper placed in a horse's skull.

Location

Go around to the far left and of Roadside Crag. This obvious, huge, right-facing corner is past the long slab in front of you but will appear in the distance and guide you in.

Protection

A standard rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces.
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10-
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10-
This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got! Jun 8, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
No move on this route is a 5.10 move. The climbing on this route is a lot more physical than Rock Wars and less physical than Autumn. Classic route, though. Loved it. May 17, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Oddly enough, Having done Andromeda Strain and Rock Wars including the upper section multiple times each, even on the same weekends, I would have said A.S. is the harder route.
I suppose it may come down to hand size or climbing style. Mar 7, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
5-star fun thin hands jamming- mostly #1 camalot sized, although a green and a couple of golds also fit in there.

This route is not .10a, it's .9 at most, especially if you compare it to Rock Wars' upper section. Oct 15, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
A stiff 5.9. I personally thought it was a little over-rated. May 16, 2010
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
In addition to the webbing on the tree, there is (as of 11/2009) a two-bolt anchor with chain and a rap ring at the top of the route. Nov 11, 2009