Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: R. Snider, J. Bronaugh, 1984
Page Views: 7,978 total · 53/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

Great climb in the dry season, but can get a little damp in the wet ones. Start on easy moves to get into a huge corner with a handcrack. Jam and stem up the crack through sustained moves to reach the top. Belay and rap from webbing on trees, and if still present after all of these years, a small stopper placed in a horse's skull.

Location

Go around to the far left and of Roadside Crag. This obvious, huge, right-facing corner is past the long slab in front of you but will appear in the distance and guide you in.

Protection

A standard rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos

cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
In addition to the webbing on the tree, there is (as of 11/2009) a two-bolt anchor with chain and a rap ring at the top of the route. Nov 11, 2009
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
A stiff 5.9. I personally thought it was a little over-rated. May 16, 2010
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
5-star fun thin hands jamming- mostly #1 camalot sized, although a green and a couple of golds also fit in there.

This route is not .10a, it's .9 at most, especially if you compare it to Rock Wars' upper section. Oct 15, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Oddly enough, Having done Andromeda Strain and Rock Wars including the upper section multiple times each, even on the same weekends, I would have said A.S. is the harder route.
I suppose it may come down to hand size or climbing style. Mar 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9
No move on this route is a 5.10 move. The climbing on this route is a lot more physical than Rock Wars and less physical than Autumn. Classic route, though. Loved it. May 17, 2011
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.10-
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.10-
This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got! Jun 8, 2015