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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Anderson, M. Hackworth
Page Views: 4,414 total, 32/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

A nice thin crack and face just left of Fatha, this route appears harder than 5.8 from the base but is easier than it looks. Climb the low-angle ramp up and left, then step left into a beautiful thin carck and flake to the top.

Location

This route is just left of Fatha, about 75' left of Roadside attraction. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.

Protection

Bring a rack with mostly small gear and only a couple of larger pieces to maybe 2". There is a bolted belay at the top.

Photos

Vlary K
 
Vlary K  
 
I am new to crack climbing and I actually had fun with this one. Some part might be a little hard because I was trying to figure out my body position. And it kinda helps if you have smaller fingers to jam in the smaller cracks. Would definitely climb it again next time. Apr 7, 2017
Gear (C4 sizes): #.3 (2), #.4, #.5, #1, some nuts. Apr 22, 2016
bobby lane
Seattle, WA
  5.9
bobby lane   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Maybe I have fat fingers because I barely fit them in on this crack, it felt comparable to other 5.9's in the red, however maybe it differs from the opinion of those w/ small fingers... Nov 8, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.8
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.8
I did this months before I finally got on Roadside Attraction (Roadside was icy in Feb, this one was nice and dry the whole way). I thought Roadside was harder than Five Finger Discount. I went ahead and agreed with the 5.8 rating though because there may have been one 5.8 move that I don't remember. It's a breeze and is very secure. I probably felt more secure than Roadside because I didn't fully "get" jamming then. Aug 17, 2010
joe disciullo
Charlotte, NC
joe disciullo   Charlotte, NC
This climb was all smiles and giggles. Super fun moves, perfect pro. Would be great for someone breaking the grade. Wish it was 1000 feet longer :) Dec 8, 2009
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Angle left onto the pale face under the overhanging headwall. There are metolius rap anchors there. The old anchors were the rap anchors over Jump for Joy (above that route's anchors). Originally you rapped from trees on the ledge or left gear at the top of the crack. Feb 7, 2007
Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
 
Adam Steel   Salt Lake City
 
I've climbed it twice and never found anchors at the top. I've had to traverse right to anchors above 'Motha'. Spicy for 5.8. Jan 16, 2007