Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Anderson, M. Hackworth
Page Views: 5,120 total · 34/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

A nice thin crack and face just left of Fatha, this route appears harder than 5.8 from the base but is easier than it looks. Climb the low-angle ramp up and left, then step left into a beautiful thin carck and flake to the top.

Location

This route is just left of Fatha, about 75' left of Roadside attraction. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.

Protection

Bring a rack with mostly small gear and only a couple of larger pieces to maybe 2". There is a bolted belay at the top.

Photos

Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
 
Adam Steel   Salt Lake City
 
I've climbed it twice and never found anchors at the top. I've had to traverse right to anchors above 'Motha'. Spicy for 5.8. Jan 16, 2007
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Angle left onto the pale face under the overhanging headwall. There are metolius rap anchors there. The old anchors were the rap anchors over Jump for Joy (above that route's anchors). Originally you rapped from trees on the ledge or left gear at the top of the crack. Feb 7, 2007
joe disciullo
Charlotte, NC
joe disciullo   Charlotte, NC
This climb was all smiles and giggles. Super fun moves, perfect pro. Would be great for someone breaking the grade. Wish it was 1000 feet longer :) Dec 8, 2009
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.8
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.8
I did this months before I finally got on Roadside Attraction (Roadside was icy in Feb, this one was nice and dry the whole way). I thought Roadside was harder than Five Finger Discount. I went ahead and agreed with the 5.8 rating though because there may have been one 5.8 move that I don't remember. It's a breeze and is very secure. I probably felt more secure than Roadside because I didn't fully "get" jamming then. Aug 17, 2010
bobby lane
Seattle, WA
  5.9
bobby lane   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Maybe I have fat fingers because I barely fit them in on this crack, it felt comparable to other 5.9's in the red, however maybe it differs from the opinion of those w/ small fingers... Nov 8, 2010
Gear (C4 sizes): #.3 (2), #.4, #.5, #1, some nuts. Apr 22, 2016
Vlary K
 
Vlary K  
 
I am new to crack climbing and I actually had fun with this one. Some part might be a little hard because I was trying to figure out my body position. And it kinda helps if you have smaller fingers to jam in the smaller cracks. Would definitely climb it again next time. Apr 7, 2017
Tara Storter
Eagle River, AK
  5.8-
Tara Storter   Eagle River, AK
  5.8-
I loved this climb. I would absolutely give it 4 stars. Stellar moves, good stances, solid placements. I enjoyed the whole thing. Nothing sketchy about it. The first bit was a little run out but honestly the climbing was so easy it was no big deal. It was my first layback, flake lead. Would definitely recommend it for those looking to do their first lead on a flake. Definitely easier for those with smaller fingers. Oct 25, 2018
Anchors are just to the left when the crack ends. Dec 6, 2018