Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Baker, J. Link
Page Views: 21,039 total · 141/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


336 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

A stellar sport route. Climb up steep face on plates and edges to chains. Easy for the grade, it felt more like a solid 5.11 in my opinion. A great lead for someone trying to break into the grade, especially if you have a big reach.

Protection

Well bolted with a chain anchor.

Location

Continue right on the appoach trail past the 5.10 wall to the overhanging wall just right of Harder Than Your Husband. Shares the first bolt with Tic Tac Toe. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
The upper part of the route has a few holds that can seep after a long period of heavy rains. The grade of this route is dubious and always has been. It goes static at 11c, and is well-fit for power climbers. Sep 18, 2006
426
426  
Sorta short for RRG route, this route is more p/e rather than enduro fest... Apr 2, 2007
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12a
I agree with Tony it is really more like solid 5.11 but was listed at 5.12a in the book so that's what I put in the description. Definitely easier if you have a good reach. Nov 14, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Im not a RRG local or anything but it feels like the 5.12a's ive climbed in New Hampshire... Maybe after climbing it a few times I'd find beta that could make it more moderate... Jan 24, 2008
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Wow the pictures of this route are so good, I don't think I would even have to climb it to know what it is like. Kinda like Morrison on steriods! Jan 9, 2009
Joi-Bobby Laos
Los Angeles, CA
Joi-Bobby Laos   Los Angeles, CA
since this is considered a 5.11 "if you're reachy", then it'd be a solid 5.12 if your average (say 5'7, unless of course, being 5'7 isn't average...). i'm making my first trip out to RRG this weekend and i have my sites set on sending my first 5.12 (my goal for the end of summer). i've been doing a bit of research and actually saw this route on a video, looks like a lot of fun, hopefully i'll pass by the roadside crag. Aug 18, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.11d
S. Neoh  
  5.11d
Go for it. It is a fun route. I am shorter than 5'7" and it still felt like hard 5.11 to me. I did the route 2nd try years and years ago, before the anchors got lowered by a few feet. I am 'local' to NH but have been visiting RRG the last few years.

Manifest Destiny over at Muir is a touch easier and is less chalked up than Ro. Aug 18, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
I was kinda hoping for some more beta photos on this route... Sep 28, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
The pocket at the crux can be skipped with body english. Sprint to the chains, each hold is huge. Not 5.12 in my opinion. Jan 28, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
We drove 3.5 hours from the New and flashed without even warming up. Not 12a, but fun. Apr 7, 2012
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
New Beefy SS Glue-Ins April 2015. Thanks ASCA/RRG FGI Initiative. Soft for 5.12a. In regards to the description where it says "Well Bolted" beware that blowing a clip with slack out will have you colliding with the boulder at the base of the climb from a few of the bolts, so be sure to have an attentive belayer for this route. Mar 21, 2017
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.12a
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.12a
feels pretty stout, but the steeps are tough for me. The crux isn't too bad with good beta, but the pump stays on you the whole way. Aug 28, 2018