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Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

AWOL S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All Cows Eat Grass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered Scale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Andromeda Strain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
C Sharp or B Flat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Camel Toe Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chunnel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crazy Fingers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragonslayer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fadda S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gumby Land T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hard Left T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hemisfear S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Didn't Know This Was The End T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Jersey Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jump for Joy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Duet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kampsight S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledger Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Motha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pulling Pockets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ro Shamlo V5- 6C
Ro Shampo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Roadside Attraction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosetta Phone Home V4-5 6B+
Runnin Down a Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Scissors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stay the Hand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strawberry Shortcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strevels Gets in Shape S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Synchronicity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tic-Tac-Toe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trouble Clef S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Up Yonder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Valor Over Discretion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Way Up Yonder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wicked Games S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Gift S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Baker, J. Link
Page Views: 18,329 total, 135/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


266 Opinions

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Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit Details

Permit Required

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.

Description

A stellar sport route. Climb up steep face on plates and edges to chains. Easy for the grade, it felt more like a solid 5.11 in my opinion. A great lead for someone trying to break into the grade, especially if you have a big reach.

Protection

Well bolted with a chain anchor.

Location

Continue right on the appoach trail past the 5.10 wall to the overhanging wall just right of Harder Than Your Husband. Shares the first bolt with Tic Tac Toe. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
New Beefy SS Glue-Ins April 2015. Thanks ASCA/RRG FGI Initiative. Soft for 5.12a. In regards to the description where it says "Well Bolted" beware that blowing a clip with slack out will have you colliding with the boulder at the base of the climb from a few of the bolts, so be sure to have an attentive belayer for this route. Mar 21, 2017
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
We drove 3.5 hours from the New and flashed without even warming up. Not 12a, but fun. Apr 7, 2012
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11d
The pocket at the crux can be skipped with body english. Sprint to the chains, each hold is huge. Not 5.12 in my opinion. Jan 28, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
I was kinda hoping for some more beta photos on this route... Sep 28, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.11d
S. Neoh  
  5.11d
Go for it. It is a fun route. I am shorter than 5'7" and it still felt like hard 5.11 to me. I did the route 2nd try years and years ago, before the anchors got lowered by a few feet. I am 'local' to NH but have been visiting RRG the last few years.

Manifest Destiny over at Muir is a touch easier and is less chalked up than Ro. Aug 18, 2010
since this is considered a 5.11 "if you're reachy", then it'd be a solid 5.12 if your average (say 5'7, unless of course, being 5'7 isn't average...). i'm making my first trip out to RRG this weekend and i have my sites set on sending my first 5.12 (my goal for the end of summer). i've been doing a bit of research and actually saw this route on a video, looks like a lot of fun, hopefully i'll pass by the roadside crag. Aug 18, 2010
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Wow the pictures of this route are so good, I don't think I would even have to climb it to know what it is like. Kinda like Morrison on steriods! Jan 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Im not a RRG local or anything but it feels like the 5.12a's ive climbed in New Hampshire... Maybe after climbing it a few times I'd find beta that could make it more moderate... Jan 24, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
 
Mike   Phoenix
 
I agree with Tony it is really more like solid 5.11 but was listed at 5.12a in the book so that's what I put in the description. Definitely easier if you have a good reach. Nov 14, 2007
426
426  
Sorta short for RRG route, this route is more p/e rather than enduro fest... Apr 2, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
The upper part of the route has a few holds that can seep after a long period of heavy rains. The grade of this route is dubious and always has been. It goes static at 11c, and is well-fit for power climbers. Sep 18, 2006