Elevation: 1,146 ft
GPS: 37.84495, -83.64369
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 115,407 total · 581/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Billy Simek
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creature Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Over the Flies
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Le Petite Bazaar
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 69
St. Alfonso's
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Bobsledding
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 302
Lord of the Flies
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 131
Attack of the Sand Shark
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 741
Creature Feature
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 650
Pogue Ethics
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 128
Perverse Intentions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 316
Overlord
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 388
Creep Show
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 181
Count Floyd Show
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 319
Twinkie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Luck's Up
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Phantasia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over the Flies
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Le Petite Bazaar
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
St. Alfonso's
 69
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bobsledding
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lord of the Flies
 302
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Attack of the Sand Shark
 131
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Creature Feature
 741
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pogue Ethics
 650
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Perverse Intentions
 128
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Overlord
 316
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Creep Show
 388
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Count Floyd Show
 181
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Twinkie
 319
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Luck's Up
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Phantasia
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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