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Elevation: 1,146 ft 349 m
GPS: 37.84495, -83.64369
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 117,691 total · 548/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek
Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creature Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There Suggest change

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

21 Total Climbs

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Location: Phantasia Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Over the Flies
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Le Petite Bazaar
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 76
St. Alfonso's
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 339
Lord of the Flies
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 143
Attack of the Sand Shark
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 862
Creature Feature
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 742
Pogue Ethics
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Grand Bazaar
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 169
Perverse Intentions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 365
Overlord
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 452
Creep Show
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 216
Count Floyd Show
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 371
Twinkie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Luck's Up
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Phantasia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Over the Flies
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Le Petite Bazaar
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
St. Alfonso's
 76
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lord of the Flies
 339
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Attack of the Sand Shark
 143
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Creature Feature
 862
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pogue Ethics
 742
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Grand Bazaar
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Perverse Intentions
 169
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Overlord
 365
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Creep Show
 452
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Count Floyd Show
 216
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Twinkie
 371
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Luck's Up
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Phantasia
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Phantasia »

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