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Phantasia Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Phantasia

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Creature Feature S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Little Dutch Boy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Over the Flies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	1,146 ft
GPS:	37.84495, -83.64369 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	115,407 total · 575/month
Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Billy Simek, saxfiend, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creature Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 4 ● Over the Flies Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 15 ● Le Petite Bazaar Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 69 ● St. Alfonso's Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 14 ● Bobsledding Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 307 ● Lord of the Flies Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 131 ● Attack of the Sand Shark Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 752 ● Creature Feature Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 660 ● Pogue Ethics Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 131 ● Perverse Intentions Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 319 ● Overlord Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 395 ● Creep Show Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 184 ● Count Floyd Show Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 324 ● Twinkie Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Luck's Up Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 21 ● Phantasia Sport