Elevation: 1,146 ft
GPS: 37.845, -83.644 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 90,869 total · 508/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

Phantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creature Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie.

Despite the rock being predominantly northeast facing the rock quality is surprisingly good.

Getting There

From Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature.

Parking area GPS: 37.8449, -83.6434

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Phantasia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
St. Alfonso's
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Bobsledding
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 252
Lord of the Flies
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Trogdor's Crack (pending)
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 106
Attack of the Sand Shark
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 621
Creature Feature
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 559
Pogue Ethics
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Grand Bazaar
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 104
Perverse Intentions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 256
Overlord
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 330
Creep Show
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 149
Count Floyd Show
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 263
Twinkie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Luck's Up
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Phantasia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
St. Alfonso's
 57
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bobsledding
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lord of the Flies
 252
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Trogdor's Crack (pending)
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Attack of the Sand Shark
 106
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Creature Feature
 621
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pogue Ethics
 559
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Grand Bazaar
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Perverse Intentions
 104
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Overlord
 256
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Creep Show
 330
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Count Floyd Show
 149
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Twinkie
 263
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Luck's Up
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Phantasia
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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