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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tony Reynaldo, Richard Brashear, 1993
Page Views: 1,614 total, 17/month
Shared By: Forestvonsinkafinger on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a hill, just left of a large flake/chimney there are a series of right and wrong open hand moves up and left. Clipping holds are all good so find the right ones.

Location

Pass Creep and Count Floyd Shows and the shallow cave, following the cliff trail, when you see a bank up right against a wall where the trail goes down between the wall and a boulder, PI climbs the first line of bolts to the right up the bank.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors (bolt 2 spins as of 4/10)

Photos

Derek Ehrnschwender
Bloomington, IN
Derek Ehrnschwender   Bloomington, IN
New glue-ins all the way up. Thanks to the community! Nov 13, 2017
michael s...
Denver, CO
 
michael s...   Denver, CO
 
Good route. I don't know why Ellington's book poops all over this one. Nov 11, 2013
Fun holds. The bolts were probably marginal the day they were put in but now they are awful. Bring gear to place to the crack out right. Apr 1, 2013
needs new bolts/anchors, but a fun line Oct 19, 2011