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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jerry Bargo, Bridget Shoe '93
Page Views: 2,141 total, 22/month
Shared By: ARussell on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Follow the clean, parallel-sided left hand crack off the starting block to a relaxing ledge for regrouping. Stem the upper corner between good stances for shallow gear placements. Be aware of a touch of moisture and a ceiling of spider webs as you topout on a jug or two to a convenient stance for clipping the anchors.

Location

On the far left side of the crag, some 200 feet around the corner past the last bolted line, Overlord, lies this obvious dihedral amongst a playground of sandy, furniture-sized boulders.

Protection

Wires and cams to 3". Be prepared with a couple pieces in the off-fingers to hands sizes for maximum comfort. The recent addition of a chain anchor should improve public opinion.
Jimbo383  
 
Climbed on July 24th, anchor is good and has no spinning. Super fun route by the way. Jul 29, 2016
polloloco
Downey, CA
  5.9-
polloloco   Downey, CA
  5.9-
Climbed 6/8/2014. Left anchor is a spinner. Jun 26, 2014
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
 
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
 
As of Oct 2013, the anchor is fine Oct 17, 2013
Jason Latting
Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
Jason Latting   Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
Led the route of the left side for a start. As of Fall 2012 one of the bolts was loose on the anchor. Left a cam in for top-roping with a group. Feb 7, 2013
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
I too started in on the left crack of the two. It was pretty dirty, so I actually moved out to the slab and enjoyed a little runout before getting my first piece in. The meat of the route is in the upper crack above the ledge anyway. Mar 19, 2012
bobby lane
Seattle, WA
  5.9-
bobby lane   Seattle, WA
  5.9-
I believe this photo is misleading, I led it on the left side from the start which is a bit steeper and much smaller crack. Perhaps somebody could add a variation to the start, or clear the confusion for me? Sep 16, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9-
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9-
This sure didn't feel like 5.7, so it all made sense when I later found out I'd led Sand Shark instead of St. Alfonso's, which is what I thought it was. Very nice climb, pumpy but never desperate. Getting the onsight was nice! Oct 23, 2009