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Routes in Phantasia
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Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Creature Feature S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Dutch Boy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Over the Flies T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 1992 |
| Page Views: | 39,989 total · 216/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.
Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.
Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.
Photos
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