Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 1992
Page Views: 32,145 total · 213/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Description

One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.

Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.

Location

Twinkie climbs the left-most line on the massive overhang on the right end of the Phantasia cliff. It begins a few eet left of Phantasia.

Protection

~11 bolts, 2BA

Photos