Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 1992
Page Views: 36,020 total · 220/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.

Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.

Location

Twinkie climbs the left-most line on the massive overhang on the right end of the Phantasia cliff. It begins a few eet left of Phantasia.

Protection

~11 bolts, 2BA

Photos