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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder - 1992
Page Views: 23,118 total, 196/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Description

One of the most popular 5.12a's at the Red, Twinkie is an excellent route with two distinct personalities: yellow & spongey at first, followed by a white creamy center. And just like the Hostess version, it helps to be well-rounded to enjoy this treat.

Begin with a reachy boulder problem to gain the slab. Easy moves between slopey pockets leads to a gnarly little slab crux involving a sharp 1/4" crimp and a sidepull mono. Above this a series of jugs lead to a great rest below the intimidating overhang. Follow massive jugs up the steep wall to a difficult move getting to the 3rd bolt on the overhanging, then more jugs to the redpoint crux: one not-so great pinch just before reaching the arete. A sit-down rest provides one last breather before the sprint to the anchor on more enormous jugs.

Location

Twinkie climbs the left-most line on the massive overhang on the right end of the Phantasia cliff. It begins a few eet left of Phantasia.

Protection

~11 bolts, 2BA
BrianWS
  5.12-
BrianWS  
  5.12-
This route is a pain to clean, and has resulted in significant injury from a large pendulum into a nearby tree.
Although this is forest service land, there is usually a biner left at the base of the roof or one bolt into it. Cleaning on lower is much safer if you use the biner as a directional - if it's still there, resist the urge to booty it. If it isn't, consider leaving a discrete biner of your own. If the forest service ban on fixed gear is to be taken very seriously, some creative use of a stick clip may be needed to get your gear back whilst staying close the he wall.
If you have a second who is capable of following the route, this is also a good option. It's a bitch to get them back on the route if they fall - taking is a better option than going for it if you want your gear back. May 24, 2016
Alex Zucca
University Heights
 
Alex Zucca   University Heights
 
Have a plan of attack on how you are going to clean this before getting on it. I wish I did. Amazing climb nonetheless. May 23, 2016
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
It's not a sitdown rest, but if you're short you can get a laydown rest before the last 10 feet of climbing. The shorter you are the better it will fit your body. Probably better to just punch it to the top, or you could go for a bat hang that works pretty well. Aug 8, 2013
Will Sweeney
Zachariah, Kentucky
Will Sweeney   Zachariah, Kentucky
Be sure not to miss the surprise hidden at the rest. May just give the extra moral needed to finish this excellent rig when your forearms are flaming! No need to use the nasty mono and micro crimp for the slab crux either. Its a 10c move at best with good beta. May 6, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12a
Super fun route- pita to clean, though. For those who havent been here in awhile, the chain draws are long gone, meaning cleaning shenanigans are required.

No sit down rest on this thing, but a decent one awaits you at the upper break if you're clever. Oct 12, 2012
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
 
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
 
CLASSIC! A victory whip should be mandatory on this thing. Belayer, give lots of slack at the end! :) Nov 8, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
i was really looking forward to copping such an iconic rest, but i was very disappointed once i actually sat in it. sitting in the slot is so insecure! i had arm bar/handjam/pinch with my right hand to keep me from sliding out of the slot. i found that double knee bars work much better. either way, what a crazy feature! Nov 23, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The bottom of this and Phantasia seep pretty badly in a good rain. So while you are sheltered from the rain the starting slab might be pretty wet. So don't plan on these for a rainy day. Oct 28, 2009