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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, M. Strevels, 1992
Page Views: 2,341 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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This climb has more technical movement but more rest than its lesser-rated neighbor. Which is actually harder depends on your skill and endurance. Climb the wandering line just left of the arete near "Creature Feature" past a series of cruxes and rests to a bolted anchor. It has been debated at length which climb is actually harder...


Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature. Just left of there, around the arete, are two sport routes. The nearer, to the right is Count Floyd Show (11b) and the further, to the left, is Creep Show (10d).


A handful of draws to get to the bolted anchors up top.


I thought it felt easier than the 10d to the left, but I wouldn't necessarily say it's grade should be lowered. It's just less thuggy. The no hands rest saved my ass before the slopey topout on a wicked humid day! Jun 27, 2016
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
There's no fixed draws on either Creep Show or Count Floyd. My partner onsighted Creep Show for his warmup climb on our last day (inspiring!), and he hung his own draws. May 17, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Some points in question for sure, but Creep show didn't have fixed draws in the early 90's when we were all debating which was actually harder...
I think it had more to do with endurance Vs a single techinical move. Porter didn't probably notice the endurance factor, as it didn't show up on his Radar. Nov 23, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
i think count floyd show is rated harder than creep show because the move over the roof/lip on count floyd show is harder than any single move on creep show. also, you get a standing no hands rest on creep show, but not on count floyd show. that's not to say there aren't no hands rests on count floyd show....

regardless of the differences, both climbs are a blast.

btw, one other reason count floyd show might be considered harder is that unlike creep show it doesn't have fixed draws. Nov 23, 2009