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All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Phantasia

Pogue Ethics

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 3.5 from 395 votes

Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Hemken, Kevin Pogue, 1991
Page Views: 8,334 total · 66/month
Shared By: Jamie gatchalian on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

long route on jugs and plates. the crux comes about halfway up, when you are forced to negotiate a bulge. there is a sit-down ledge rest before the crux, though.

Location

hike back down the road from the main area and look for a faint trail on the right. hike up this trail and the first climb you reach is pogue ethics.

Protection

11 bolts

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Photos

Pogue Ethics (5.9+)
Pogue Ethics (5.9+)
 1
Jac Leads up Pogue Ethics
Jac Leads up Pogue Ethics
 0
Starting off Pogue Ethics
Starting off Pogue Ethics
 0
Scott enjoying "Pogue Ethics".
Scott enjoying "Pogue Ethics".
 0
Alex Orkwis topdogging Pogue Ethics.
Alex Orkwis topdogging Pogue Ethics.
 0
Pogue Ethics, late fall 2007
Pogue Ethics, late fall 2007
 0
Dream team reunited
Dream team reunited
 0
Mary froging through the crux on Pogue.
Mary froging through the crux on Pogue.
 0
The start of Pogue Ethics looks like a coral reef
The start of Pogue Ethics looks like a coral reef
 0
It's a long one!
It's a long one!
 0

9 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
AJ O.
Arvada, CO
  5.9+
AJ O.   Arvada, CO
  5.9+
One of the best routes for its grade in the gorge. Really great line consisting of pulling plates and chicken heads. Good length too. Used to be 10 bolts, but the first bolt is marked off (stick clip the second; fixed biners at the top). Mar 24, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+
Thanks to the locals for replacing the first four bolts on this route with beautiful new glue-ins! Stick clip is still advisable, as the start is a bit pumpy. Oct 15, 2010
Budman252
 
Budman252  
 
Definitely the best sport at it's grade in The Red. Jun 17, 2012
Peter Lundgren
Boulder, CO
 
Peter Lundgren   Boulder, CO
 
The first bolt has been replaced. Oct 7, 2012
Hunter Gvo
Birmingham, Michigan
 
Hunter Gvo   Birmingham, Michigan
 
Awesome route! Definitely do it if you come to this wall. They added a few bolts this spring, there are 11 now. Apr 10, 2013
Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
  5.9+
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
  5.9+
Best 5.9 period. IMHO Sep 6, 2013
Britton M
 
Britton M  
 
easy approach, easy to find, great route if you are on a quick trip or pressed for time. Dec 28, 2014
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
 
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
 
Great holds, easy movement, what's not to love? Probably all the loose flakes on the climb. I was shocked at how many flakes were "x"ed and how many others weren't that should have been. I spook easy, but be warned. Mar 26, 2016
Alex Templar
  5.9+
Alex Templar  
  5.9+
There is a path that doesn't involve climbing on the X flakes (just before the rest ledge). This climb has so many variations, it makes for an awesome few laps, that is when not busy. Be sure to alpine or double draw the bolt in the wash between the plates (5th bolt I believe), I have seen it lock up a rope on drag that could not be pulled. Nov 29, 2017

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