Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Hemken, Kevin Pogue, 1991
Page Views: 8,696 total · 68/month
Shared By: Jamie gatchalian on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

401 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


long route on jugs and plates. the crux comes about halfway up, when you are forced to negotiate a bulge. there is a sit-down ledge rest before the crux, though.


hike back down the road from the main area and look for a faint trail on the right. hike up this trail and the first climb you reach is pogue ethics.


11 bolts
Arvada, CO
AJ O.   Arvada, CO
One of the best routes for its grade in the gorge. Really great line consisting of pulling plates and chicken heads. Good length too. Used to be 10 bolts, but the first bolt is marked off (stick clip the second; fixed biners at the top). Mar 24, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Thanks to the locals for replacing the first four bolts on this route with beautiful new glue-ins! Stick clip is still advisable, as the start is a bit pumpy. Oct 15, 2010
Definitely the best sport at it's grade in The Red. Jun 17, 2012
Peter Lundgren
Boulder, CO
Peter Lundgren   Boulder, CO
The first bolt has been replaced. Oct 7, 2012
Hunter Gvo
Birmingham, Michigan
Hunter Gvo   Birmingham, Michigan
Awesome route! Definitely do it if you come to this wall. They added a few bolts this spring, there are 11 now. Apr 10, 2013
Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
Best 5.9 period. IMHO Sep 6, 2013
Britton M  
easy approach, easy to find, great route if you are on a quick trip or pressed for time. Dec 28, 2014
Stephen Montgomery
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
Great holds, easy movement, what's not to love? Probably all the loose flakes on the climb. I was shocked at how many flakes were "x"ed and how many others weren't that should have been. I spook easy, but be warned. Mar 26, 2016
Alex Templar
Alex Templar  
There is a path that doesn't involve climbing on the X flakes (just before the rest ledge). This climb has so many variations, it makes for an awesome few laps, that is when not busy. Be sure to alpine or double draw the bolt in the wash between the plates (5th bolt I believe), I have seen it lock up a rope on drag that could not be pulled. Nov 29, 2017

More About Pogue Ethics