Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: P. Jarrard, J. Moll, C. Snyder, 1992
Page Views: 6,743 total · 46/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


245 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A pumpy 10d next to a technical 11b. I've heard it several times that climbers believed that the grades on these two routes were reversed!
Get on to the left of the two sport routes and head up and left on it into an awkward and pumpy left-leaning flake. Balance and grip your way to the anchors on this climb, then compare to the route to the right...

Location

Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature. Just left of there, around the arete, are two sport routes. The nearer, to the right is "Count Floyd Show" (11b) and the further, to the left, is "Creep Show" (10d).

Protection

A set of draws. The high flake on this route once sported an old fixed nut for a point of protection under the flake, but it was decaying and unsightly (epoxied in) and has since been replaced.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
this is one of the best 10.d's ive climbed and ive done a bunch.. Feb 22, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
sharp edges on plate jugs.

if you're not solid at the grade, stick clip the first bolt. Nov 23, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10d
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10d
Really nice route, I was stoked to see my partner get the onsight on a very tough and sustained lead. I had trouble following between the first and second bolts, but got the sequence after a hang and finished it. The no-hands ledge toward the top is a welcome place to shake out the pump. May 16, 2010
best 5.10 in the universe? maybe... Oct 19, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10d
The original first bolt on this route is missing- I would consider a stick clip nearly mandatory on this route, the current first bolt is probably 25' off the ground guarded by some 5.10d climbing.

That said, a phenomenal route that stays with you the entire length of the climb- no free rides on this one- a must do! Oct 12, 2012
One of those perfect combinations of geology and creative humans!
The only down side is the bolts are non stainless and need replacing as of 3/13. The anchors have been updated though. Apr 1, 2013
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
 
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
 
Great moves. If you got on Heard it on NPR and wanted a shorter version, I would say this is it. Solid climb. Mar 31, 2016

More About Creep Show

Printer-Friendly