Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: K. & E Pogue, 1991. P2 added 1992 by C. Keller, S Faulkner, T. Schlachter.
Page Views: 11,349 total, 85/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


422 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds.
Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower off. Or continue on plates and edges to the top of the rock with nuts and slings for gear.

Location

Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature.

Protection

A handful of draws plus some slings and nuts to finish the climb if so desired. It is generally still done just to the anchors (20 meters) as a single sport pitch.
pooch
 
pooch  
 
2nd pitch is non-existent, don't waste time or energy hauling gear up there. Crack is shallow & packed with mud and there's nothing to sling. May 7, 2017
Kristi Cookie
  5.9
Kristi Cookie  
  5.9
I am 5'3 and cannot campus... The roof is straight forward and does not feel like a 5.10. You are on huge buckets! Throw a heel and get over it(the roof). I stayed a bit more to the right so i had a left heel, and actually skipped the the first bolt after the roof and got the next one. I would have considered this route a one move wonder, but getting up to the first bolt can be tricky. Have fun! Jul 20, 2016
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This is a one move wonder. The beginning up to the roof is much harder if damp (duh, right - but more so than most), and I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the landing isn't ideal. If you can campus at all, you'll find the crux at the roof easy - if not, then you'll find this outside the 5.9 range. I'm guessing that's why there are some 5.10 ratings on here, even though this route is not as technical or sustained as Pouge Ethics. Jul 10, 2016
Stephenmontgomery
Maryland
  5.10-
Stephenmontgomery   Maryland
  5.10-
Loved it! Bouldery start to cool roof pull, followed by sweet jug hauling. I will say that I thought the first 3 bolts was a little harder than 5.9 maybe 9+ or a easy 10a. However the rest of climb is 5.6/7. Regardless of grade it's super fun! Nov 1, 2015
manleyk Manley
Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
manleyk Manley   Broomfield, CO
  5.10a
I found Creature Feature a bit harder than Pogue Ethics, so I'm calling it a 10a. Fun route! There was a salamander on the first feature (so, aptly named). Jun 2, 2014
Zach Kling
Indianapolis, Indiana
Zach Kling   Indianapolis, Indiana
If you're short, you can do this. My wife is 5'2" on a tall day and did it easily. Have fun! May 22, 2014
I climbed this route a few days ago and noticed that one of the anchor rings (right I believe) is starting to wear through at one point, maybe 1/3 of the way and needs to be replaced. I did not have the gear to do it. Jul 29, 2013
S. Neoh  
Muir Valley has a high concentration of routes good for the aspiring leader. Mar 4, 2012
James Pence
  5.9 R
James Pence  
  5.9 R
I am 5'7". The roof is hard but doable. Creature Feature is my favorite climb so far but I am new to the sport. Anyone know of more good spots for a beginner in the Gorge? The very beginning was harder than getting past the roof. Mar 4, 2012
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
 
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
 
Has anyone short done this. I thought it was reachy and i am 5'11".
Fun route. I swear there is dino tracks in the upper section. Jan 9, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I cant wait to do this climb it looks so fun. Cant wait for another trip here in December! Oct 5, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9
Loads of fun, reminded me of High Exposure at the Gunks. Really, the hardest section of this climb is the start. The roof move is only difficult if you're short, and even then it's doable. May 16, 2010
Fun climb. The crux is at the beginning on the slab. If you're going to fall it'll most likely be here. Clip under roof then reach up over lip to great juggy plates. Pop over lip then continue on juggy holds all the way to the top. This route seems to stay wet a lot so don't go if it's rained within the past few days. In colder weather, do it in the morning, as the sun will shine on it then. Jul 25, 2008