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Routes in Phantasia

Attack of the Sand Shark T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bobsledding T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Count Floyd Show S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creature Feature T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creep Show S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grand Bazaar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gum Traverse, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Le Petite Bazaar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lord of the Flies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Luck's Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overlord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverse Intentions S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Phantasia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pogue Ethics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
St. Alfonso's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomfoolery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trogdor's Crack (pending) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twinkie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
You Got Served T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Terry Kindred - 2002
Page Views: 2,309 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jamie gatchalian on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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technical, balancey, slabby route. very atypical of the red river gorge. lots of small crimps up the face, with the crux coming near the top.


continue along the trail past "lord of the flies", and this is the first bolted climb as you round the corner.


6 bolts and anchors


Sam Stephens  
This route was a lot of fun for me. Not typical RRG, but very reminiscent of the New River Gorge. Thought it was a great line. Feb 3, 2010
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
Loved the moves on here. Really fun slab climbing. Felt easier than 10b to me. I tried comparing it to Lonesome Dove in Rumney NH which is a 10a. I especially enjoyed this route because it gets a bunch of sun. It was a pretty cold day when I did it, and I was grateful to not have numb fingers on this one. Mar 19, 2012
Cleaning is tricky on this route, bring long enough slings or you will clean hanging under the ceiling, which was annoying. Oct 18, 2015
There are 6 bolts on this climb Oct 11, 2016
took a 25' whipper on this route, have fun! Actually is a fun route, I was just very inexperienced at the time. Mar 1, 2017

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