Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: G. Robinson, M Hackworth, 1983
Page Views: 15,645 total · 103/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

340 Opinions

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A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.


Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.


A standard light rack.
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
This is a great route, I had a great time on it. Dec 2, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A good route with good sections, but it always felt too wandering and the pitches were too short to call classic. The best part is the jamming on pitch #2 (all 20' of it, if that) out to the right of the ledge, as the position and rock are truly good. Feb 14, 2007
Adam Steel
Salt Lake City
Adam Steel   Salt Lake City
This route was overhyped for me and has the same reputation among others I've talked to. It has a short section at the end that is striking, but it's so short you almost don't notice. I don't think it's the classic line everyone makes it out to be. Even so, the fact that it's a two pitch 5.6 in the Red makes for good multi-pitch practice for beginner climbers. Mar 7, 2007
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
cool finish, liked the exposure Nov 15, 2007
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Short pitches, but an excellent route with nice exposure. Save a #3 Camalot or equivalent for the angling crack on P2. Oct 27, 2008
This is a fun route.

3 stars for the view from the top, the fun factor, and the novelty of the hallway area.

I felt if was a touch more difficult than many of the other 5.7's I've led at RRG so I gave it a "+".

Good pro. Oct 13, 2009
i put my wife on the first pitch of this thing as an easy first trad lead. she had difficulty and when I tried it I could see why. I think the guidebook rates the 1st pitch as a 5.4, and I would say it is stiff for the grade. Not to nit-pick such an easy route, just make sure you don't get in over your head. The crux is getting over the first little bulge. Nov 18, 2009
BCA   michigan
good route with nice exposure on the second pitch. i have climbed this twice, and the second time i did my first trad lead on the first pitch. it took pro easily, and has good stances. i like the little chimney doorway up to the second pitch, and the second pitch is a bit stiffer than a 5.6, in my opinion. one rap from the bolted anchors will do with rope to spare. this is a fun one. Jun 15, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
This route can get very snow-covered in winter. Aug 17, 2010
Fun route with short pitches, great pro (you will love your #3), and exposure. Jul 11, 2012
We rapped with 70 meter rope no problem Jun 16, 2014
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
Made the mistake of doing it at the end of the day- tired and hands chewed up already made it hard to stick the jams towards the top. Still awesome, great exposure. Can't beat the view up top.

As of 3-23-15, 2 out of 3 bolts on the top have spinning hangars. Still rapped off fine (70m gets you down no problem). Mar 24, 2015
Jordan Kessler
Westerville, OH
Jordan Kessler   Westerville, OH
Great fun route. 60M gets you down to the base of "The Turret 5.5" with a little rope to spare. Oct 19, 2015
Derek Ehrnschwender
Somerville, MA
Derek Ehrnschwender   Somerville, MA
Pretty positive my partner and I drank the coldest beer to ever make it to the top of this route, thanks to the 30lb cooler we hauled up both pitches. Next time we'll do all our hauling from the rap anchors to avoid tree hangups. I found the start trickier than P2. Aug 27, 2017
Wesley Neill
Sequoia National Park, CA
Wesley Neill   Sequoia National Park, CA
Very, very fun. The top pitch is so good that you will just wish it went forever. It ends quickly, and that is the only detractor from this route.

Having two #3's saved for the hand crack traverse will make it feel a little less exposed. I did it with one placed a little to far to the left of the traverse, which made the top out feel pretty spooky.

Also, The first 12 feet of climbing is thuggish 5.8 or easy 5.9. Nov 21, 2018
Ma Ja
Red River Gorge
Ma Ja   Red River Gorge
Definitely save a #3 for the top. Also, don't forget to protect the ledge traverse on P2 for your second. If you don't, there's about a 20' pendulum potential. Dec 9, 2018
Jordan M.  
Mostly a solid hand crack with great straight forward gear placements. First person video: youtu.be/fdz10eDtv9s Jan 9, 2019
Derrick Colberg
Louisville, KY
Derrick Colberg   Louisville, KY
The "Cheater tree" on the start is now gone, so the first two moves have added to the fun. Also the stones to help get to P-2 are also gone so add a V2 boulder problem to scoot through the tight hall way. Again only adding to the fun. Feb 18, 2019
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Referring to the above. V2? Seriously? 5.11-??? Feb 20, 2019