Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Blake Bowling
Page Views: 20,916 total · 160/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Mar 20, 2008 with updates from Jake Stern
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


679 Opinions

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Description

Fantastic that goes from easy run-out, to crimpy, to over hanging plates.

Location

Climb furthest to climber's right

Protection

9 bolts and anchors
esha  
If the rock were a bit more solid this route would easily be 4 stars. All the same, it is a lot of fun! Cool crux move and overhanging plate hauling. When you see it, you will want to climb it! Oct 11, 2010
Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
Looks good and climbs better! The upper half is tons of fun on the overhanging plates. Really great route and a must do at the Gallery. Apr 28, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
Impressively overhung for the grade. Some of the plates feel like time-bombs to me but then again, maybe not. Not as good or as hard as Breakfast Burrito. Oct 17, 2011
Isaac Levin
Clemson, SC
 
Isaac Levin   Clemson, SC
 
Such a fun climb! Take a relaxing rest on the awesome ledge halfway up before getting to the jug haul. Cleaning it is tough, just like any overhanging climb. Mar 22, 2012
Ryan McCorvey
Birmingham, AL
 
Ryan McCorvey   Birmingham, AL
 
One of the best 10's I've ever done! Tall, overhung, jughaul. Super fun Mar 7, 2013
TylerC  
The Red River Gorge guidebook has this listed as a 5.10b (I would agree).
Crux is early into the route, near second bolt- a right hand undercling on a small flake to a left hand dead-point crimp. Holds get bigger as route progresses with a great resting point on a standing ledge half way up the route, before the overhanging section. Route continues up arete and becomes progressively overhanging with progressively bigger holds, to a great two hand jug at the chains for easy clipping. Apr 21, 2014
James Willis
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
James Willis   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
This route isn't run out. Sep 13, 2014
kenr  
The bolts are kind of far apart in the upper section with the (admittedly juggy) fun big plates. I wouldn't want to fail making a clip there.
. (but the tricky crux lower down is well protected). Nov 12, 2015
Andy P.  
If you climb at a gym with really short walls this route is perfect for you, two distinct rest spots are big enough to sit down and have lunch at if needed. Nothing is really sustained except the classic top section to the chains - this area offers big holds and clean falls. Lower crux requires some smart climbing and just about any climber can do it if they can realize some not-so-intuitive footholds below the mantle. Jul 27, 2016
highneed
  5.7+
highneed  
  5.7+
If this started at the bivy ledge I'd give this a 5.6 and 4 stars. As is it is at best 5.7+ with literally one hand move to a great crimp then a jugs to a ledge you can set a tent up on. (Here is the trick; learn to stem and smear) Sep 7, 2016
Jacob Baron
Somerville, MA
Jacob Baron   Somerville, MA
can you climb this route with a 60m rope? May 9, 2017
Cody Degen
  5.10b
Cody Degen  
  5.10b
@Jacob Baron,

This route is closer to 75-80' than 100'. A 60m rope will get you down with plenty of rope to spare. Sep 25, 2017
Alex Kauer
Royal Oak, MI
  5.9+
Alex Kauer   Royal Oak, MI
  5.9+
Great warm up route in the area, with some classic moves. Climb flows great and is nothing more then 5.7 until the overhang. After a short 5.9 jug haul, the crux for me was clipping the second Mussy hook. Great "first outdoor lead" for a solid gym climber. Route is a lot of fun, with some room for climber creativity. 60 meter rope works perfectly fine. Oct 1, 2018
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Fun climb, made more interesting because a hold broke off in the opening sequence. This makes the opening moves (once you get established at the first bolt) a little challenging. Once you get through those moves, the climb is pure jug hauling joy. A little bit mindless as you ascend, so I dock a 1/2 of a star for that. Oct 25, 2018
Wesley
Morgantown WV
  5.8
Wesley   Morgantown WV
  5.8
I can't believe people are rating this 10c. It's arguably only 5.8+ or 5.9 with a single move of 10a climbing.

But please, make me look like the badass I am not. Nov 26, 2018