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Routes in The Gallery

Murano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All That Glitters T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guernica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Starry Night S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jared Dean, Shadow Ayala
Page Views: 2,420 total, 39/month
Shared By: Raiden on Nov 7, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

A couple of long reaches lead to varied enjoyable climbing up the face.

This route has cleaned up nicely since it was bolted in the fall of 2012 and is an excellent addition to the crag!

Location

The line to the right of "A Brief History of Climb". This is the rightmost line at The Gallery.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors

Photos

I may get flack for this but I felt this was a 5.11+ Awesome route but some sections felt hard for a 5.11-, mainly the move coming off the undercling. I was able to crank out a knee-bar in that same undercling that provided a great rest. Great moves throughout the route I'd go as far to say it might be the best route on the wall 4 star Dec 5, 2017
Matt M  
Definitely height dependent for some moves (5'2" with minus 2 ape), but very doable and lots of fun! A wee bit run out here and there (that's just my nerves talking). No loose rock as was mentioned in previous comments. Good moves, a variety of holds, and very aesthetic. 11a/b Oct 20, 2017
Kim Ran  
This aesthetic line offers climbing that doesn't disappoint. If you're at the Gallery, it is a must-do! May 10, 2016
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.11b
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.11b
beautiful looking line up slightly suspect rock.
personally, I found this route to be harder than the other 11's along the wall- might be a little height dependent? Nov 5, 2015
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Apart from a handful of holds with an "x", I didn't notice anything else that was loose or friable. Excellent vertical route with one short pumpy section! Oct 26, 2015
really aesthetic and I really enjoyed the bottom. however, the climbing up top was not particularly enjoyable to me (awkward scary mantle, kneebar undercling cruxes, etc.). glad I tried it but probably wouldn't climb it again. May 27, 2015
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
I didn't feel scared of the 'loose rock' on this climb. It seems to have cleaned up well and it is a great route with long moves between awesome jugged out holds (most better than they look from the ground). Nov 22, 2014
ikmortu
People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11a/b
ikmortu   People's Republic of Chicago
  5.11a/b
This is a great climb and destined to be a classic once some of the loose rock is cleared! Jun 10, 2013
Kyle Hanus
  5.11-
Kyle Hanus  
  5.11-
This was one of my favorite climbs at the gallery. The orange and black colors on this climb are very aesthetically pleasing and the sit down rest hueco before the finish lets you take in the view. May 29, 2013