Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Alex Yeakley
Page Views: 26,268 total · 201/month
Shared By: russellHOBART on Mar 20, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


715 Opinions

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Description

Great spicy climb for the beginning leader. Huge holds with great movements

Location

Left side of corner

Protection

7 bolts and anchors
BCA
michigan
 
BCA   michigan
 
pretty good climb. great stances while clipping. watch out for water seeping out of the rock right at the base of the climb. bring a rope bag or something to flake on. Jun 24, 2010
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
 
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
 
Routes like this keep you coming back. Pure pleasure. Just fun stuff provided by nature and a guy with a hammerdrill. Mar 2, 2011
Isaac Levin
Clemson, SC
Isaac Levin   Clemson, SC
Such a relaxing climb. The bottom is pretty straight forward and can be a little boring. But, overall it is a very fun route. Mar 22, 2012
Zeke6
Akron, Ohio
 
Zeke6   Akron, Ohio
 
"Pretty good climb" "can be a little boring"

So critical that you don't realize what an amazing climb this is. Jun 25, 2012
BCA
michigan
 
BCA   michigan
 
so...when i said i thought it was a pretty good climb, i meant i thought it was a pretty good climb. Mar 11, 2013
TylerC  
This is a great climb for anyone new to lead climbing. Clipping stance is excellent at almost every bolt, on a full foot ledge with jug holds through the entire route. Crux is possibly reaching the first bolt, or a pillar section with options for a lean-back accent on decent feet, or a compression ladder climb that requires more technique than strength. Clipping chains may be difficult for the shorter folk. Apr 21, 2014
Andy P.  
Outstanding climbing, holds are strong and the route is well gardened with nothing loose. Crux for most of my group was getting above a small bulge right below the chains. This upper crux can be bypassed with some balancy climbing slightly right of the bolt - the "technician's solution." Alternatively, the strong leaders can climb the bulge straight on using a couple of finger pockets for a big move to solution jugs on the slab above - this would be the "burly boulderer's solution." Have fun! Jul 27, 2016
highneed
  5.8
highneed  
  5.8
This is the Unicorn; rarely is there a climb this good, at this grade with bolts. Also you can lead on gear with much runout. Sep 7, 2016
Russ Worley
Atlanta, GA
  5.8
Russ Worley   Atlanta, GA
  5.8
The Unicorn! I like it, hehe. There is another rare breed 5.8 around the corner in The Shire. The route is "Audie" and is easily tied with this one for Best in Show. Awesome intro to the Kentucky pump. Nov 7, 2016
Made the mistake of climbing this route the day after a very heavy rain. Because it's right next to a drainage spot, most of the holds were still sopping wet and unusable, whereas other routes along the wall were perfectly fine. I would often times find a hold that would seem really good, but then as I stuck my hand in it was slimy and wet and took all the chalk off my hand. This made the route much harder and not enjoyable. May try again when it's not so wet. Jul 10, 2017
AnthonyKraschinsky  
  5.8
I absolutely loved this route! Had to wait a little while, plus my wife and had our two year old out climbing with us too (thanks to whoever built the railings!!), and therefore had to resort to asking a kind young man from Toledo to belay me. It's very simular, yet much easier, than "a brief history of climb" due to the plate feeling juggy holds. All in all a tremendous warm climb for all skill levels! Aug 21, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.8
Franck Vee  
  5.8
Well worth the likely wait. You should climb that regardless of grades - it's just a bunch of really fun moves. Oct 16, 2017
What a fun climb! On a hot, humid day this was well worth the wait. If you have time there are other shaded routes in the area. Jun 21, 2018
Ethan Heald
Cincinnati
 
Ethan Heald   Cincinnati
 
A classic for a reason! After the two parallel lines, go right then way left to finish. This route collects water. Right now there are 2x4s on the ground to make for a dry belay station. Jun 22, 2018
Grant Bauman
Knoxville, TN
  5.8
Grant Bauman   Knoxville, TN
  5.8
Quite possibly the best route I've ever been on below 5.10! Jul 30, 2018
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Fun, happy, easy peasy. Worth doing irrespective of your redpoint capability Oct 25, 2018