Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney, 2016
Page Views: 2,640 total · 103/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This is some of the steepest roof climbing you will find at the somewhat moderate grade of 12a. Climb up thru a moderate start past the first bolt to a large ledge. Rest and contemplate the steep roof ahead. Climb out the roof on huge features, allowing plenty of opportunities for trickery. Get established above the route on slightly less steep terrain, and climb thru big holds but well spaced to the anchors.

Still has a "new" feel, but should clean up nicely with more ascents.

Location

The huge roof at the left side of the Gallery. "Short by the Foot" 10c is to the left, and "Bottle Infrontome" 10d is to the right. Several routes past the hard looking 12c's "Banksy" & "Blank Canvas"

Protection

5 Perma's + 1 bolt to anchor. Stickclip.

Photos

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This route is superb! It is chossy but will be even better when it is cleaned up! A roof reminiscent of Obed. Hero moves on great holds, just gotta fight the pump. Nov 20, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
I thought the start actually had the hardest moves, especially pulling up onto the ledge. (BETA ALERT: there's a crucial hidden pocket on the right side of the pedestal.) From there's it's pumpy and awesome hero climbing. Apr 11, 2017
Joe Zatek
  5.11a/b
Joe Zatek  
  5.11a/b
Awesome kneebars and great climbing. Felt about the same grade as air ride equipped though. Definitely not 12a. Oct 29, 2017
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I think if you're a Rifle climber (hint, hint), you'll find this very soft. If you can find the good rests in all the crazy features, you can make it to the redpoint crux at the last bolt with pretty minimal pump. I don't think I would call this a 12 given the available rests, but probably the steepest 5.11 in the Red? Regardless, it is super fun and well worth getting on. Still pretty sandy at the time of this post but it's cleaning up into a beauty! Apr 23, 2018
bluewaters182
  5.12a
bluewaters182  
  5.12a
Solid 12a even with knee bars, and way harder than air ride equipped. May 27, 2018