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Routes in The Gallery

27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All That Glitters T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Calm Like a Bomb S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guernica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Murano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Starry Night S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney, 2016
Page Views: 1,872 total · 95/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 4, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is some of the steepest roof climbing you will find at the somewhat moderate grade of 12a. Climb up thru a moderate start past the first bolt to a large ledge. Rest and contemplate the steep roof ahead. Climb out the roof on huge features, allowing plenty of opportunities for trickery. Get established above the route on slightly less steep terrain, and climb thru big holds but well spaced to the anchors.

Still has a "new" feel, but should clean up nicely with more ascents.

Location [Suggest Change]

The huge roof at the left side of the Gallery. "Short by the Foot" 10c is to the left, and "Bottle Infrontome" 10d is to the right. Several routes past the hard looking 12c's "Banksy" & "Blank Canvas"

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 Perma's + 1 bolt to anchor. Stickclip.

Photos

Kim Ran
 
Kim Ran  
 
This route is superb! It is chossy but will be even better when it is cleaned up! A roof reminiscent of Obed. Hero moves on great holds, just gotta fight the pump. Nov 20, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
I thought the start actually had the hardest moves, especially pulling up onto the ledge. (BETA ALERT: there's a crucial hidden pocket on the right side of the pedestal.) From there's it's pumpy and awesome hero climbing. Apr 11, 2017
Joe Zatek
  5.11a/b
Joe Zatek  
  5.11a/b
Awesome kneebars and great climbing. Felt about the same grade as air ride equipped though. Definitely not 12a. Oct 29, 2017
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I think if you're a Rifle climber (hint, hint), you'll find this very soft. If you can find the good rests in all the crazy features, you can make it to the redpoint crux at the last bolt with pretty minimal pump. I don't think I would call this a 12 given the available rests, but probably the steepest 5.11 in the Red? Regardless, it is super fun and well worth getting on. Still pretty sandy at the time of this post but it's cleaning up into a beauty! Apr 23, 2018
bluewaters182
  5.12a
bluewaters182  
  5.12a
Solid 12a even with knee bars, and way harder than air ride equipped. May 27, 2018

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