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Routes in The Gallery

Murano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All That Glitters T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Calm Like a Bomb S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guernica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Starry Night S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Blake Bowling 2006
Page Views: 1,059 total · 27/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder past one bolt, get in all the gear you can from a good stance, then boulder through a few difficult moves to a jug. From here, move carefully through the arching lie back and a red-point crux to the anchors.

Location

From the upper parking area, take the top approach trail to where it comes out at Break the Scene. All That Glitters is the obvious arching corner to your left.

Protection

Single set from purple C3 to #2 C4 with doubles in the smallest sizes. I used a #3 Wild country Zero to protect the crux. There is one bolt for the initial boulder problem. Doubling up in the 0-2 Metolius range is not a bad idea.

Photos

kiff
  5.12
kiff  
  5.12
this route is the bee's knees. the crux yields to a few different sequences depending on one's preference. What follows is enjoyable climbing with several solid stances. this route deserves more attention. currently sporting a welded stopper at the crux...woops. Nov 28, 2014