Elevation: 917 ft
GPS: 37.563, -83.768 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 744,117 total · 5,713/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 29, 2009 with improvements by borealForest
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

Another triumph of climber ownership, the PMRP is a 700-acre area in the southern section of the Red River Gorge. It is owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. More than 300 routes in 20 separate areas are available to climbers thanks to the efforts of the RRGCC.

Climbing in the PMRP began in the 1990s not long after the discovery of the Motherlode just east of the area. At the time, this sizeable tract of land was owned by the Pendergrass family descendents, and much of it was leased out for oil exploration. As climbers began developing the numerous crags in the area, the RRGCC worked toward an accommodation of the various public and private interests there. Finally, in 2004, the coalition purchased surface rights to the tract, ensuring continued climbing access.

As with Muir Valley, the other major climber-owned section of Red River Gorge, climbers must sign a liability waiver before climbing in the PMRP. For more information and rules on the area, go to the RRGCC web site. Direct link to the liability waiver smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a2…

Getting There

To get to the PMRP, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Depending on the area you're heading to, turn off on either Fixer Road or Bald Rock Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the Motherlode/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the PMRP may be problematic without a high-clearance vehicle. 2WD cars should park at the top of the hill before descending down into the canyon and be mindful not to block oil machine and other access roads.

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at PMRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at PMRP.

* As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is still allowed,
  just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).
* Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil workers’ trucks.
* Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
* All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
* Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
* Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
* No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is permitted.
* No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
* No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of
  numerous oil wells would pose.

456 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 870
27 Years of Climbing
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 220
Cheaper Than a Movie
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 839
A Brief History of Climb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 558
Breakfast Burrito
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 380
Fire and Brimstone
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 186
K.S.B.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 455
Whip-Stocking
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 234
Toker
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 403
Amarillo Sunset
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 140
Random Precision
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 91
Buddha Hole
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 89
Gold Rush
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 230
Check Your Grip
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 111
Dogleg
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 136
Starry Night
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
27 Years of Climbing Gallery
 870
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cheaper Than a Movie Chica Bonita Wall
 220
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
A Brief History of Climb Gallery
 839
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Breakfast Burrito Drive-By Crag
 558
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fire and Brimstone Drive-By Crag
 380
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
K.S.B. Shire
 186
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Whip-Stocking Drive-By Crag
 455
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Toker Bob Marley
 234
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Amarillo Sunset N 40
 403
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Random Precision Gallery
 140
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Buddha Hole Solar Collector/Gold…
 91
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Gold Rush Gallery
 89
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Check Your Grip Drive-By Crag
 230
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dogleg Bob Marley
 111
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starry Night Gallery
 136
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) »

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