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Routes in The Gallery

Murano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All That Glitters T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guernica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Starry Night S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Drexler, Tim Powers - 2004
Page Views: 6,603 total, 56/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 2, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A bulging start mixed with a high class technical slab and gymnastic moves out a steep roof makes for one of the finer routes at the Gallery.

The route begins with an "in your face" bulging boulder problem that gains you access to the meat of the climb.

Finesse your way up the incredibly fun thin slab using body weight opposition, high steps, and keen route finding skills.

Rest below the massive roof, then monkey your way out the bulging roof, making some fun and well protected throws to massive huecos and flakes. Finish up pockets and one last hard move to the arete out right.

Location

The route immediately to the left of "27 Years of Climbing" that breaks the large roof looming above.

Protection

9 bolts plus chain anchors.
One of the best climbs I have done. the jugs at the top are perfect Nov 18, 2017
feifei
 
feifei  
 
Super fun route! My first 5.11 onsight. Feels more like a 5.10 though if you are good at overhanging stuff... Sep 22, 2017
highneed
  5.10c/d
highneed  
  5.10c/d
For me the crux was the first 5' off the ground, the overhang has humongous holds and can be climbed dozen of different ways. Not sure why but clipping the second draw on the anchor was weird for me, the first was easy though. Sep 7, 2016
Henry Robinson
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11a
Henry Robinson   Chattanooga, TN
  5.11a
Beware, a massive hold/section of rock broke off to the left of the last bolt on the slab face and almost hit the belayer. 8/10/15 Aug 24, 2015
Don Letts
Golden, Co
Don Letts   Golden, Co
Nice Whipper on Johnny B. Good Apr 22, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
Thank you for putting it up. I never had the pleasure of meeting the man but, by all accounts, his passing was a very sad loss for RRG and all who visit The Red. Sep 15, 2013
Tim Powers
Indiana
Tim Powers   Indiana
I bolted this route in memory of my friend John Bronaugh. Sep 15, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
+1 about being a good choice for the inspiring 5.11 climber. A decent hold down and to the left of the anchors should make clipping the chains not the crux (assuming one is not pumped out by then). Oct 17, 2011
Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
Only hard part is the steep section up top. Great choice for your first 5.11. Clipping the anchors seemed like the crux because of the pump and the holds aren't huge (like the rest of the route). Nov 30, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
After the first couple of moves, this climb eases off to the 5.7-5.8 range to the head wall. That said, dont underestimate the upper section- it be burly! Oct 25, 2010