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Routes in The Gallery

27 Years of Climbing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Brief History of Climb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Draws and No Brains S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All That Glitters T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
All That Quivers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blank Canvas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottle Infrontome S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Break the Scene S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Calm Like a Bomb S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crimpy and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crude Awakening S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
DaVinci's Left Ear S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dain Bramage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Darkside of the Flume T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Different Strokes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frontal Lobotomy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Rush S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guernica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guernica (To first anchor) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Happy Trails S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Johnny B. Good S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
King Lives On, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knot Sure S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Murano S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Brain, No Pain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
NoBody Wins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Preacher's Daughter, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Precision S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short By a Foot S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Starry Night S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen and the Art of Masturbation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens
Page Views: 1,981 total · 33/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Dec 4, 2013
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


139 Opinions

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Description

Start with a boulder problem to HUGE plates. Pull over an interesting flake feature to cool door knob like holds.

Location

Next route left of Brief History of Climbing.

Protection

8 Bolts

Photos

Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Alex Zucca   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Amazing finishing dyno to the chains on this one! Super fun move Oct 25, 2015
This route is fantastic. There was a nice slab section, a nice overhang section, a cool vertical flake, and at the top there were some plates spread out enough for a dyno. The whole thing looks similar to Brief History of Climb and is totally worth trying if you're stuck waiting for 27 years of climbing or BHoC (typical). Oct 30, 2015
S. Neoh  
Consensus of .11a by a wide margin at redriverclimbing.com (Ray's site). Seems like last move is harder for shorties like us. Will try this route the next time I find myself at The Gallery. Oct 30, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.10d
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.10d
Climbs like 3 individual boulder problems all separated by no-hands rests. The last bit up the sidepulls and plate jugs is a blast! Exciting finish Nov 5, 2015
JillianWeller
  5.10d
JillianWeller  
  5.10d
The last "dyno" move can be done static by a 5'1" climber Dec 17, 2015
highneed
  5.10a/b
highneed  
  5.10a/b
Much more interesting than its neighbor. Was there with 3 other groups (10 total climbers) and 10 onsited the climb, 0 did a dyno. Definitely stick clip the first bolt. Sep 7, 2016
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
  5.11a
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
  5.11a
I'd give it 11a for the move up top and since its not sustained 10 climbing. The middle section makes the route feel a lot easier, but there are some decently tough moves in the beginning and at the end. Not sure how others skip the dyno, but I went right to a nice side pull/undercling and up to the last big flake. Really fun route! Apr 10, 2017
Matt M
 
Matt M  
 
Definitely not a sustained climb. 5'2" minus 1 ape - you can do the final move to the first set of chains static. But it's fun to dyno to such a bomber hold! Fun route! Oct 20, 2017
Hold broke for those of you finding it harder than 5.10. Posted a photo Oct 23, 2017
Ian Flener
Louisville, KY
 
Ian Flener   Louisville, KY
 
the final big plate below the first anchors is gone Nov 22, 2017
Ben Horowitz
Tokyo, JP
5.11a
Ben Horowitz   Tokyo, JP
5.11a
Not particularly good at dynos, but the last move to the anchors felt pretty hard for 10d! Supposedly there used to be a big plate there a bit lower down, seemed at least 11a to me now. May 21, 2018
Wesley
Morgantown WV
  5.10c
Wesley   Morgantown WV
  5.10c
Super fun! The bottom isn't as hard as it looks, but isn't easy either. Definitely use a stick clip on this one.

The reward of pushing through the bottom is a jug haul and a fairly easy onsite if you manage to stick the last move. I did it statically and fell on the first attempt. The dyno was easier.

Definitely don't be shy about getting on this. It stays free while the 12 person parties line up for "Brief History" right next door. I didn't try the dyno but wish I had. I think it would have been easier than going for it statically which lead to me blowing it on the first try.

It's a stretch to call this "11a". It's not much harder than Brief History and it's a stretch to call that one "10b". Sep 14, 2018

More About Guernica (To first anchor)

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