Elevation: 973 ft
GPS: 37.728, -83.635 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 734,912 total · 4,383/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 4, 2006 with improvements by Zach Davis and 1 other
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall, Bruise Brothers, or Sunnyside while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary, Midnight Surf, and Solarium crags.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

* All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
* The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
* No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
* No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Getting There

Google Maps Directions

If you're driving from Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto CR 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left (this is Fincastle Road, though there is currently no street sign). Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, Stop at the parking booth if it is attended, and follow directions from the attendant, or in the case it is unattended,  turn right on a gravel drive to the parking area (you'll see a garage) and follow the instructions at the pavilion for honor parking. Take the appropriate trail (North or South) behind the pavilion for the area where you plan to climb.

Fees

Although there is no fee to enter Muir Valley a fee to enter Muir Valley, there is a $10 per car per day fee to park. Alternatively, users can purchase an 12 month parking pass for $120. This parking fee aims to encourage carpooling and help alleviate parking issues on busy weekends. The official FOMV press release on the new parking fee is:

We have some important news to share with you concerning changes for the 2016 climbing season.

 As you know, Muir Valley is one of the most popular climbing destinations in North America, with over 40,000 visitors each year. This enthusiastic utilization requires significant resources to maintain and operate the preserve, as well as continue ongoing improvements such as vault toilets in the valley, emergency response system upgrades, and new trail development. FOMV is fortunate to own and steward such an amazing place, and we couldn’t do it without the
 dedication and support of the climbing community.

 Muir has become so popular, however, that our parking lots are full to overflowing most weekends and some weekdays throughout the climbing season, necessitating the hiring of staff to manage the busy
 lot, and occasionally visitors have had to be turned away when we reach capacity.

 We have implemented a plan to achieve a fairer distribution of support, and to avoid over-crowding by charging a fee for parking at Muir Valley. Admission to the Valley will remain free, but we will institute a daily parking charge of $10 per car starting March 1, 2016. Visitors may also purchase a 2016 annual parking permit for $120, and we will provide a laminated ID to display on the dashboard while visiting. All revenue raised by parking fees will go to FOMV and will be used to operate, maintain, and further enhance Muir Valley. Parking fees will augment the donations made by our generous supporters, enabling us to continue making Muir such a special place to climb, hike, and enjoy nature.

 Beginning in March, there will be a kiosk as you enter the Muir Parking area. We will have staff present as much as practically possible to assist you, to process your cash or credit/debit card payment, and to give you a receipt to display on your dashboard while parked. At other times, when it is not practical to staff the kiosk, the plan will operate on an honor system with instructions and routine monitoring, as is done in many other climbing areas. In case the kiosk is not staffed, please plan to bring $10 cash (per car, not per person) so that you can use the honor system.

 Alternatively, you may complete an application on this website for an Annual Muir Valley Parking Permit, and pay $120 by PayPal, credit, or debit card. We will then send a laminated 2016 Annual Parking Permit (good until Dec 31, 2016) to your postal address.

 Thank you for your support and cooperation. We value your feedback as well as your support. If you have questions or comments, please contact us at FOMV.publicity@gmail.com. We look forward to seeing you in the spring!

368 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Muir Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 103
Shock and Awe
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 630
Send Me on My Way
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 726
Plate Tectonics
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 429
Boltergeist
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 640
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 386
Return of Manimal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 659
Air Ride Equipped
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 342
Bathtub Mary
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 385
Banshee
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 79
Lip Service
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 81
Delicatessen
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 202
Super Best Friends
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 108
Abiyoyo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 125
Cell Block Six
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 100
Jesus Wept
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shock and Awe Hideout
 103
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Send Me on My Way Bruise Brothers Wall
 630
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Plate Tectonics Tectonic Wall
 726
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boltergeist Hideout
 429
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky Tectonic Wall
 640
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Return of Manimal Bruise Brothers Wall
 386
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Air Ride Equipped Solarium
 659
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bathtub Mary Arsenal
 342
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Banshee Solarium
 385
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lip Service Great Arch, The
 79
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Delicatessen Solarium
 81
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Super Best Friends Solarium
 202
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Abiyoyo Solarium
 108
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cell Block Six Midnight Surf
 125
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Jesus Wept Sanctuary
 100
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Muir Valley »

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