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Elevation: 973 ft 297 m
GPS: 37.7246, -83.63506
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Shared By: saxfiend on Oct 4, 2006 · Updates
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Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Muir Valley Nature and Climbing Preserve is a 350 acre privately owned climbing area in Rogers, KY, in the Red River Gorge.

Originally purchased and developed for climbing by Rick and Liz Weber. In March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization, which is now 100% responsible for the ownership and management of the property.

The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall, Bruise Brothers, or Sunnyside while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary, Midnight Surf, and Solarium crags.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

* All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;

* The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.

* No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)

* No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Getting There Suggest change

Google Maps Directions (48 Muir Rd, Rogers, KY 41365)

(37.72455, -83.63480)

https://muirvalley.org/tabs/ For a map with directions and a climbing area map.

Do not use the mountain project "Open in Maps/Directions" feature for individual crags to route for driving directions. 

Muir Valley may be accessed only through the official entrance in the main parking lot, where the south and north trails begin. 

From Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto County Road 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left (this is Fincastle Road, though there is currently no street sign). Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, Stop at the parking booth if it is attended, and follow directions from the attendant, or in the case it is unattended,  turn right on a gravel drive (Muir Rd) to the main parking area (you'll see a metal barn) and follow the instructions at the pavilion for honor parking. Take the appropriate trail (North or South) behind the pavilion for the area where you plan to climb.

Fees

Suggest change

Although there is no fee to enter Muir Valley, there is a daily fee of $15 per car to park. Alternatively, users can purchase a 12-month parking pass for $150 or receive one through volunteering for three days of trail work. The official Muir Valley press release on the new parking fee is below:

In alignment with our mission to provide an unforgettable outdoor experience through public access to world class climbing routes at all skill levels, well-maintained hiking trails, and opportunities for volunteerism to give back to the community through environmental and climber safety stewardship, effective March 1st, 2023, Muir Valley is instituting a new pricing model. Specifically, the new parking fee will be $15 per vehicle, and an annual pass will cost $150. Additionally, in alignment to our initiatives in keeping Muir Valley accessible for all, we are launching a new volunteer program where visitors can volunteer 3 days during the course of a year to receive the annual pass free of charge.

Muir Valley understands that $5.00 can be a real economic burden to some individuals. Muir Valley passionately welcomes visitors from all socioeconomic backgrounds and strives to enable all recreationists to have an accessible experience. If you are a frequent visitor of MV (more than 10x per year), we strongly suggest the annual pass. And for those of you in need of financial assistance, please consider the volunteer option to receive the annual pass for free (more info to come soon). Additionally, in line with our commitments to Justice, Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion, we encourage you to submit a request in the JEDI engagement form if you would like to discuss other ways to help offset the increased cost and keep Muir Valley accessible to all.

Thank you for your support and cooperation. We value your feedback as well as your support. If you have questions or comments, please contact us at chair@muirvalley.org. We look forward to seeing you in Muir Valley soon!

457 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Muir Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1,078
Plate Tectonics
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 689
Boltergeist
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 937
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 465
Pre-emptive Strike
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 655
Return of Manimal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1,127
Air Ride Equipped
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 587
Bathtub Mary
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 717
Banshee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 181
Delicatessen
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 408
Super Best Friends
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 194
Abiyoyo
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 224
Cell Block Six
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 166
Mirage
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 104
Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 183
Jesus Wept
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Plate Tectonics Tectonic Wall
 1,078
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boltergeist Hideout
 689
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky Tectonic Wall
 937
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pre-emptive Strike Hideout
 465
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Return of Manimal Bruise Brothers Wall
 655
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Air Ride Equipped Solarium
 1,127
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bathtub Mary Arsenal
 587
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Banshee Solarium
 717
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Delicatessen Solarium
 181
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Super Best Friends Solarium
 408
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Abiyoyo Solarium
 194
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cell Block Six Midnight Surf
 224
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Mirage Solarium
 166
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks Sanctuary
 104
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Jesus Wept Sanctuary
 183
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Muir Valley »

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