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Routes in Tectonic Wall

Ball and Chain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Drift T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dime a Dozen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Bolt Faith S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paraplegic Power T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plate Tectonics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tall Cool One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Hancock, Carandang, Truesdale, T. and Truesdale, I., 2004
Page Views: 15,187 total · 115/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This climb is a classic "must-do" for the area...technical/pumpy climbing featuring pockets, jugs, and sidepulls with a steep finish. Enjoy!

Location

Farthest route to the left on the Tectonic Wall.

Protection

6 bolts/anchors.
Ladd    
About 1 and a half years ago I was climbing this thing breaking lots of footholds off due to the newness of the climb. Dec 4, 2007
I climbed this route in the fall of 2007 and it was in solid shape.

However, the third bolt is a bit far past the second, with some ground-fall potential if the leader falls after taking up rope to clip. Best to belay attentively - I took in more than two big arm lengths of rope as my climber fell from this point and we met eye-to-eye about 2 feet off the deck. May 14, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Nearly every route has groundfall potential if you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, especially if you clip from too low. Although counter-intuitive, it's generally better to clip high because it minimizes the amount of slack out. This one is very closely bolted in my opinion - much more so than most routes in the Red.

All that said... this is a great route with fun moves on clean rock! Oct 19, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10b
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.10b
Outstanding route, probably my favorite lead this trip. The section between the second and third bolts felt a little desperate, but I managed to pull it off without a fall. Must-do climb! May 16, 2010
Troy Russell
Fenton, MI
Troy Russell   Fenton, MI
Looks like fun!

I'll have to give it a try someday. Jan 25, 2012
Chadd Sechler
Turbotville, PA
  5.10b
Chadd Sechler   Turbotville, PA
  5.10b
Great, fun route... A Classic! Aug 30, 2012
Que'bien Thomas
Long Beach, California
Que'bien Thomas   Long Beach, California
every time I come here, PT and Gettin' Lucky are pretty crowded. Keep climbing bolt faith Oct 29, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Or, you could consider the 2-minute stroll over to Johnny's Wall and climb the four 5.10 routes there. All of them are good to very good. Then return to PT near the end of the day. We have twice found the place deserted ~1.5 hours before dusk. Oct 29, 2014
Austin Chasteen
  5.10b
Austin Chasteen  
  5.10b
The sidepull rest makes this a very fun route for the beginner 5.10 leader. Overall good holds and intuitive motion - classic climb. Oct 9, 2016

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