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Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky

5.10b, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 3.4 from 579 votes
FA: Hancock, Carandang, Truesdale, T. and Truesdale, I., 2004
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Tectonic Wall

Description

This climb is a classic "must-do" for the area...technical/pumpy climbing featuring pockets, jugs, and sidepulls with a steep finish. Enjoy!

Location

Farthest route to the left on the Tectonic Wall.

Protection

6 bolts/anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andrew Messick climbing on Gettin Lucky in Kentucky in Muir Valley of Red River Gorge
[Hide Photo] Andrew Messick climbing on Gettin Lucky in Kentucky in Muir Valley of Red River Gorge
James cruising the route
[Hide Photo] James cruising the route
Zach Adamczyk going for the clip while climbing Getting Lucky in Kentucky in Red River Gorge
[Hide Photo] Zach Adamczyk going for the clip while climbing Getting Lucky in Kentucky in Red River Gorge
Pulling on plates halfway up the route.
[Hide Photo] Pulling on plates halfway up the route.
Seth leading the way on Getting Lucky in Kentucky.
[Hide Photo] Seth leading the way on Getting Lucky in Kentucky.
Pump is setting in
[Hide Photo] Pump is setting in
Start Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky
[Hide Photo] Start Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky
Nearing the top.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top.
Aaron K. gettin' lucky.
[Hide Photo] Aaron K. gettin' lucky.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] About 1 and a half years ago I was climbing this thing breaking lots of footholds off due to the newness of the climb. Dec 4, 2007
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route in the fall of 2007 and it was in solid shape.

However, the third bolt is a bit far past the second, with some ground-fall potential if the leader falls after taking up rope to clip. Best to belay attentively - I took in more than two big arm lengths of rope as my climber fell from this point and we met eye-to-eye about 2 feet off the deck. May 14, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Nearly every route has groundfall potential if you blow the 2nd or 3rd clip, especially if you clip from too low. Although counter-intuitive, it's generally better to clip high because it minimizes the amount of slack out. This one is very closely bolted in my opinion - much more so than most routes in the Red.

All that said... this is a great route with fun moves on clean rock! Oct 19, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Outstanding route, probably my favorite lead this trip. The section between the second and third bolts felt a little desperate, but I managed to pull it off without a fall. Must-do climb! May 16, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Or, you could consider the 2-minute stroll over to Johnny's Wall and climb the four 5.10 routes there. All of them are good to very good. Then return to PT near the end of the day. We have twice found the place deserted ~1.5 hours before dusk. Oct 29, 2014
Austin Chasteen
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The sidepull rest makes this a very fun route for the beginner 5.10 leader. Overall good holds and intuitive motion - classic climb. Oct 9, 2016
Alex Dadbert
Northern Virginia
[Hide Comment] First person footage here: youtube.com/watch?v=UweWxfj… Apr 12, 2019