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Routes in Tectonic Wall

Ball and Chain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Drift T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dime a Dozen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Bolt Faith S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paraplegic Power T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plate Tectonics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tall Cool One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark and Jenny Ryan - 2007
Page Views: 3,254 total, 28/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


218 Opinions

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Description

Fun route with good holds, just like the other three at Tectonic. Pull through a big flake followed by a crack to a ledge. Climb your way to some massive KY plates after that to the easily clippable anchors.

Location

Located on the wall perpendicular and right of Fifth Bolt Faith

Protection

7 bolts + anchors
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
  5.9+
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
  5.9+
Cool route with good variation. Plates, crack, easy roof. I'd rate the crux at 5.9+. Rest of the route is super easy. Apr 7, 2017
iclimegud  
 
  • correction* 7 clips plus the anchors Fun route :)
Jul 11, 2016
Zach Veach
Zionsville, Indiana
  5.9
Zach Veach   Zionsville, Indiana
  5.9
Great warm up, but the book is a little off. I'd say more like 70-75ft instead of 60ft and it has 8 bolts, not 6. (Not Including the chains) Cool Route! Mar 21, 2016
Zach Burton
Bloomington, IN
Zach Burton   Bloomington, IN
This is a great warm-up route, however I think it is a little harder than a 5.9. The crux of the route (bolt 4 I believe) is quite difficult. A lot different from the other routes on Tectonic, but still a great climb. May 7, 2015
Deejinator  
 
Easy start, interesting crux, fun top section. 8 bolts plus anchors, not 6. Nov 26, 2013
Peter Lundgren
Boulder, CO
 
Peter Lundgren   Boulder, CO
 
Very unpleasant 3rd and 4th clips. The top half is fun, but doesn't make up for the bottom half. Sep 22, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Yeah, nice long route. But I thought some of the thin plates/flakes just before the anchor look suspect. Noticed the thin cracks on some of the flakes? I definitely tippy-toed my way to the anchor on this climb. Apr 8, 2012
Samuel Roberts
  5.8+
Samuel Roberts  
  5.8+
Great climb. Largest plates in the world! Good for a novice leader Apr 8, 2012
ehp25
Fayetteville, AR
 
ehp25   Fayetteville, AR
 
Enjoyable climb! The belayer will definitely understand why this route is called Tall Cool One...natural a/c! Crux is around the 3rd bolt up to the ledge. After that, smooth sailing. Jun 27, 2011
Ben C
Portland, OR
  5.9
Ben C   Portland, OR
  5.9
bottom is kinda funky, but the top of the route is great. the starting flake made me think for a minute, and the final moves before the roof felt somewhat committing. Top of the route follows this great column style feature of plates/jugs. the roof pull move is very similar to the Creature Feature move over at Phantasia. not quite as good as plate tectonics, but if your waiting for PT or Gettin Lucky in Kentucky, its a fun route! Nov 27, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9
Great climb! The name says it all. I'd give it four stars if it weren't for the even better routes here. Very different in character from Plate Tectonics, and much longer (must be at least 80', and 10 or more bolts, not six). The ledge is a nice place to catch your breath before you tackle the fun roof above it. May 16, 2010