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Routes in Tectonic Wall

Ball and Chain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Drift T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cottonmouth (a.k.a. Boom-Slang) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dime a Dozen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fifth Bolt Faith S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paraplegic Power T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plate Tectonics S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Serpentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tall Cool One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Justin Miniard (established by Dustin Stephens)
Page Views: 425 total, 17/month
Shared By: Aaron Hwang on Oct 27, 2015 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Easy start leads to ultra technical / ridiculously large moves. There's a lot of chalk going out left at the third bolt going to four. It looks as though the route boomerangs around left then up right back to the bolt. Or, go direct with giant moves or tiny intermediates. Either way, try to have fun!

Note: The medallion at the base of the route says "Boom-Slang 5.11c.) It feels more like 5.12c!

Location

To the right of Serpentine

Protection

Brand new wave bolts to anchors

Photos

Corona
  5.13-
Corona  
  5.13-
So I onsighted Ball and Chain (the 12b to Boom-Slang's right) in good conditions, but was utterly unable to do the move on this climb on the same day. Initially, I was inclined to call this the same grade, but I think we need to hear from someone who's actually sent it first. I tried an all points off dyno, a fig4, and drop kneeing above my head to no avail. No sign of hold breakage, either. It goes, I'm sure, but it's damn hard. Much harder than the very similar crux of Ball and Chain

Trying to find out more info on it later, I came across the comments on the RRC.com guide page for Cottonmouth Looks like the establisher never FFA'd it. The guy that freed it guessed the grade at 5.12b, with other commenters that did not send it calling it V5/V6. I didn't send it either, so I can't be sure what the move goes at. Going by this chart, it would be 5.12d if V5 or 5.13a if V6.

Grading single move climbs is a pain--I'm glad Rumney isn't my home Ball and Chain--one of the grades eventually should probably be adjusted up or down. Nov 18, 2016
Dustin Stephens
  5.12+
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12+
I'm not sure if anyone ever sent it or not. The crux move is at least V5-6, so you can update the grade to 12+ if you want (the redriverclimbing.com online guide grade and Muir valley tag at the base are wrong) Feb 26, 2016
Aaron Hwang  
 
I attempted this route and reached the top but I did not send. I couldn't figure out the intended line but the crux did not feel 5.11c to me and my 5'6" height. Perhaps I'm so used to the Red's overhanging nature that this face climb simply felt hard. Jan 25, 2016
Dustin Stephens
  5.12+
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12+
Did you do the route? Just curious how hard you thought it was if so. Jan 13, 2016