Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Tim Powers, Mike Susko - 2004
Page Views: 11,367 total · 90/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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68 Opinions

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Starts at the right side of the big steep wall of huecos. Make a rising rightward traverse past a few bolts to gain some good holds as the route heads straight up. There is apparently a new direct start that does not change the grade though I have not done it. As you head straight up the holds thin until you have a series of moves on 2 and 3 finger pockets with poor feet ending at a horizontal below a small roof. Work around the roof to the right and up the face more easily to the anchor.


The far right end of the steep wall of pockets, does not really climb on this wall as the route heads right and up to the sweet looking headwall with small pockets.


Bolts and a bolted anchor.


Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
If you could give a route a 6th star at the Red to set it apart and give it some distinction from the other classics, this is the one. There is a reason this is the most viewed route on the Red River Climbing website. It is hyper classic status. Brilliant and powerful opening moves leads to a decent shake, then some easier but fun fluff climbing through the middle to a very cool pocket sequence near the top. From the pocket redpoint crux, slam a jug and finish on hero holds climbing to the top. Worth a trip from anywhere in the world just to do this climb..... Mar 22, 2015
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
Really, this climb is something incredible. Everything about it screams "perfect". Slightly overhanging orange pocketed face crux at the top is immaculate. Get on this climb. May 6, 2015
Brian Abram
Celo, NC
Brian Abram   Celo, NC
This route is incredible. If this grade is hard for you, as it is for me, do not fear---there are no stopper moves anywhere on this thing. Getting past the second bolt has one somewhat powerful V3-4 move to a jug, and it was the hardest move on the route for me. I felt the "crux" pockets up top are also V3-4-ish. The moves between all the other bolts are easier sequences that are very reasonable, and most bolts have rest jugs to clip from. So if you can flash V3, and if you can rest on overhanging jugs, give it a shot. Sep 18, 2017
Hillbill   Indianapolis
I disagree. It's asking a lot of someone to not get on a classic route because we are concerned about people getting on it 100 years from now. The previous guy is right, it's 5.10/5.11 climbing to a sweet pocket problem up top. This route is absolutely amazing. Oct 10, 2017
Franck Vee  
Errr... I can't say I support that elitist view of climbing either. As if because you climber harder you should have a bigger claim at the "right" to climb a route... makes not sense to me. Feb 14, 2018
vimeo.com/245977683 Apr 20, 2018