Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FA: Mark Ryan, Jenny Wagner, J.J., Jared Hancock, Rick Weber
Page Views: 4,114 total · 35/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


223 Opinions

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Description

Pretty tough start. Don't go too far right or the climbing gets easier and not as fun. Pull the the really thin technical start to a technical slab. Climb through several bolts until you reach the steeper jug pulling section to the anchors. Fun line. Bottom felt a little harder than 10c to me but it was we and I had very little skin left on my fingers from two weeks of climbing

Location

this is just to the left of boltergeist

Protection

11 bolts and bolted anchors

Photos

Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
The first couple moves are 10c. The rest is much much easier. Very fun and long route. Nov 30, 2010
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10b/c
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10b/c
The top looks like it might be tough, but the jugs are too good! Jun 4, 2014
Jeremy Cadwell
Lakewood, CO
 
Jeremy Cadwell   Lakewood, CO
 
depending on how close you are to the tree i'd rate the starting 15 feet around 5.11a.

if you start by using the crack on your right, the climb is more of a 5.9 or 5.10a throughout. Tough to grade this climb because there are so many ways to send. Apr 14, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Yeah, agreed; climbing up about three feet to the right of the tree and far away from the fat right crack is .10d/.11a. Super crimpy. Thee rest of the route is super fun and easier, maybe .10b. Oct 26, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
  5.10c
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10c
So much fun - if you're short on time, definitely pick this over Boltergeist. May 31, 2016
Not my favorite climb. Don't get baited into the crack halfway up like I did or you'll have an interesting time.... Jul 16, 2016
Devin McCauley
  5.10c
Devin McCauley  
  5.10c
Seemed reachy my partners were jealous of my height. May 15, 2017
Dan Rudolph
Chicago, IL
 
Dan Rudolph   Chicago, IL
 
Better than Boltergeist. May 14, 2018