Elevation: 1,006 ft
GPS: 37.731, -83.64 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,094 total · 303/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

Getting There

Take the North Trail from the main parking lot. At the bottom of the North trail turn left onto the gravel road at the valley floor, stay right when the road forks and cross a bridge that parallels  the road. Find a sign in the next field and take the approach trail for Animal Crackers and Boneyard in a field on your left. At the top of the hill go right for Boneyard or left for Animal Crackers. Walk along the cliff to find the first route, Lula Mae.

Alternatively pass the Animal Crackers Trailhead and follow the road passing signs for Hideout and Great Wall, follow the road as it turns left and steeply uphill. Pass the trailhead for the Solarium and find a sign on your left for the Boneyard/Midnight Surf. At the top of the stairs make a left and you will find yourself underneath the main Boneyard buttress. Taking a right here to find Abby Gabby Doo, Flying Serpents, etc. Continuing along the wall will put you at the Midnight Surf.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Oink! Oink!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
Hijacked Project
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 191
One-Armed Bandit
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 197
Cindarella
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 125
Lucy Goosey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 89
Armed Insurrection
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Tanduay Time
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 124
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Gym Jones Approved
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Hematopoiesis
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Renegade
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 35
Bangers and Mash
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 31
Flying Serpents
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Trouble in Paradise
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oink! Oink!
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hijacked Project
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
One-Armed Bandit
 191
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cindarella
 197
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Lucy Goosey
 125
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Armed Insurrection
 89
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tanduay Time
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
 124
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gym Jones Approved
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hematopoiesis
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Renegade
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Flavor of the Week: McMoose…
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bangers and Mash
 35
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Flying Serpents
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Trouble in Paradise
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Boneyard »

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