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Routes in The Boneyard

Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bangers and Mash S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying Serpents S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 1,006 ft
GPS: 37.731, -83.64 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,175 total, 145/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

Description

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

There are a number of projects here, some open, some closed, and potential for many more.

Getting There

Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lula Mae
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oink! Oink!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hijacked Project
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One-Armed Bandit
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stealing Melinda
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cindarella
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy Goosey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Armed Insurrection
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gym Jones Approved
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bangers and Mash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Glide
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trouble in Paradise
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lula Mae 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Oink! Oink! 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hijacked Project 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
One-Armed Bandit 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stealing Melinda 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cindarella 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Lucy Goosey 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Armed Insurrection 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gym Jones Approved 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flavor of the Week: McMoose… 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bangers and Mash 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Glide 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trouble in Paradise 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Boneyard »

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