Description

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

There are a number of projects here, some open, some closed, and potential for many more.

Getting There

Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 12
Lula Mae
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Oink! Oink!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Hijacked Project
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 128
One-Armed Bandit
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 36
Stealing Melinda
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
Lucy Goosey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Armed Insurrection
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 89
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Gym Jones Approved
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
Bangers and Mash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Glide
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Trouble in Paradise
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lula Mae
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Oink! Oink!
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hijacked Project
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
One-Armed Bandit
 128
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stealing Melinda
 36
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lucy Goosey
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Armed Insurrection
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship
 89
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gym Jones Approved
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flavor of the Week: McMoose…
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bangers and Mash
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Glide
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trouble in Paradise
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Boneyard »

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