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The Boneyard Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Boneyard

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abby Gabby Goo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Armed Insurrection S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bangers and Mash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Cindarella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	First Fast Draw, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Flying Serpents S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Glide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Gym Jones Approved S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hematopoiesis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hijacked Project S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hoosierheights.com S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hot Fudge Sunday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Last Slow Draw, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lucy Goosey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lula Mae T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Oink! Oink! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	One-Armed Bandit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Petey's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Renegade T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Son of a Wanted Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Stealing Melinda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Surfing the Whale's Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweet Tater S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tanduay Time S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tao Bato S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Trouble in Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Unknown Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Warrior's Path, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Winona T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,006 ft	307 m
GPS:	37.73135, -83.63968 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

Getting There

Take the North Trail from the main parking lot. At the bottom of the North trail turn left onto the gravel road at the valley floor, stay right when the road forks and cross a bridge that parallels the road. Find a sign in the next field and take the approach trail for Animal Crackers and Boneyard in a field on your left. At the top of the hill go right for Boneyard or left for Animal Crackers. Walk along the cliff to find the first route, Lula Mae.

Alternatively pass the Animal Crackers Trailhead and follow the road passing signs for Hideout and Great Wall, follow the road as it turns left and steeply uphill. Pass the trailhead for the Solarium and find a sign on your left for the Boneyard/Midnight Surf. At the top of the stairs make a left and you will find yourself underneath the main Boneyard buttress. Taking a right here to find Abby Gabby Doo, Flying Serpents, etc. Continuing along the wall will put you at the Midnight Surf.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 116 ● Hijacked Project Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 276 ● One-Armed Bandit Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 88 ● Stealing Melinda Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 276 ● Cindarella Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 184 ● Lucy Goosey Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 130 ● Armed Insurrection Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 75 ● Tanduay Time Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 68 ● Tao Bato Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 180 ● Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 20 ● Hematopoiesis Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Renegade Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 46 ● Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 63 ● Bangers and Mash Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 59 ● Flying Serpents Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 30 ● Trouble in Paradise Sport