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Elevation: 1,006 ft
GPS: 37.73135, -83.63968
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 58,530 total · 333/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the North Trail from the main parking lot. At the bottom of the North trail turn left onto the gravel road at the valley floor, stay right when the road forks and cross a bridge that parallels  the road. Find a sign in the next field and take the approach trail for Animal Crackers and Boneyard in a field on your left. At the top of the hill go right for Boneyard or left for Animal Crackers. Walk along the cliff to find the first route, Lula Mae.

Alternatively pass the Animal Crackers Trailhead and follow the road passing signs for Hideout and Great Wall, follow the road as it turns left and steeply uphill. Pass the trailhead for the Solarium and find a sign on your left for the Boneyard/Midnight Surf. At the top of the stairs make a left and you will find yourself underneath the main Boneyard buttress. Taking a right here to find Abby Gabby Doo, Flying Serpents, etc. Continuing along the wall will put you at the Midnight Surf.

33 Total Climbs

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Location: The Boneyard Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Hijacked Project
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 264
One-Armed Bandit
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 262
Cindarella
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 169
Lucy Goosey
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 118
Armed Insurrection
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 71
Tanduay Time
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 52
Tao Bato
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 164
Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Hematopoiesis
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Renegade
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 43
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
The Last Slow Draw
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 58
Bangers and Mash
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 50
Flying Serpents
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Trouble in Paradise
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hijacked Project
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
One-Armed Bandit
 264
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cindarella
 262
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Lucy Goosey
 169
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Armed Insurrection
 118
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tanduay Time
 71
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tao Bato
 52
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Captain Blondie Sinks The Ship
 164
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Hematopoiesis
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Renegade
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Flavor of the Week: McMoose…
 43
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Last Slow Draw
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Bangers and Mash
 58
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Flying Serpents
 50
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trouble in Paradise
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Boneyard »

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