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Midnight Surf Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Midnight Surf

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Farewell to Arms S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Babyface S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cell Block Six S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Crucible, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Iniquity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mellow Yellow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shiva S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Starfish and Coffee S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tree Hugger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Vortex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Elevation:	1,043 ft	318 m
GPS:	37.73199, -83.64195 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	46,672 total · 252/month
Shared By:	Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.

Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.

Most draws are fixed with metal cables.

Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.

Getting There

Take the North Trail behind the barn in the main parking lot. Turn left when you reach the valley and walk along the gravel valley floor road. Stay right at a fork in the road and cross a bridge across a small creek. Continue along the gravel road for awhile, passing the approach trails for Animal Crackers, Hideout, Great Wall, and Solarium, before finally reaching the Midnight Surf trail on your right. At the top of the trail make a right for Midnight Surf or left for Boneyard.

You can also approach as for Animal Crackers, make a right, pass the Boneyard and continue along the cliff to Midnight Surf.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Surf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 21 ● Mellow Yellow Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 66 ● Tree Hugger Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 90 ● Iniquity Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 58 ● Babyface Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 235 ● Cell Block Six Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 42 ● The Crucible Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 21 ● Vortex Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 59 ● Tapeworm Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 29 ● A Farewell to Arms Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 12 ● Starfish and Coffee Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 28 ● Shiva Sport