Elevation: 1,044 ft
GPS: 37.732, -83.642 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,797 total · 232/month
Shared By: Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek
Access Issue: Muir Valley access Details

Description

Long overhanging wall with routes graded well into the 5.12 to 5.13 range.

Some parts are chossy or loose (looking at the bottom of the cliff you will understand), but the classics are very solid.

Most draws are fixed with metal cables.

Some very high quality climbing in my opinion. Better be ready for dynamic climbing, the holds are sometimes far apart.

Getting There

Take the North Trail behind the barn in the main parking lot.  Turn left when you reach the valley and walk along the gravel valley floor road. Stay right at a fork in the road and cross a bridge across a small creek. Continue along the gravel road for awhile, passing the approach trails for Animal Crackers, Hideout, Great Wall, and Solarium, before finally reaching the Midnight Surf trail on your right. At the top of the trail make a right for Midnight Surf or left for Boneyard. 

You can also approach as for Animal Crackers, make a right, pass the Boneyard and continue along the cliff to Midnight Surf.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: Midnight Surf Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Midnight Surf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Mellow Yellow
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 36
Tree Hugger
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 64
Iniquity
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
Babyface
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 141
Cell Block Six
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
The Crucible
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Vortex
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 30
Tapeworm
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
A Farewell to Arms
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Shiva
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mellow Yellow
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tree Hugger
 36
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Iniquity
 64
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Babyface
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cell Block Six
 141
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Crucible
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Vortex
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tapeworm
 30
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
A Farewell to Arms
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Shiva
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Midnight Surf »

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