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A Farewell to Arms
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.6 from 36
votes
Routes in Midnight Surf
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A Farewell to Arms S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Babyface S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cell Block Six S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crucible, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Iniquity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mellow Yellow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shiva S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Starfish and Coffee S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tree Hugger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vortex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.73199, -83.64195 |
| FA: | Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel 2007 |
| Page Views: | 3,564 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Oct 26, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
This climb while not quite as classic as other Midnight surf routes is still worth a run. Climbs more like a standard RRG route with a more diverse set of holds than other Midnight Surf routes. There are fewer lock of moves between huge holds, and more pockets and edges.
Begin in a small right facing dihedral and make more difficult than they look moves past the first few bolts to a nice rest. Contemplate the large roof ahead, When ready battle thru the roof and up the pumpy headwall saving some juice for challenging moves getting to and clipping the anchors.
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