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Routes in Midnight Surf

A Farewell to Arms S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Babyface S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cell Block Six S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crucible, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Iniquity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mellow Yellow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shiva S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tree Hugger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vortex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brad Weaver, Kipp Trummel - 2007
Page Views: 2,814 total, 29/month
Shared By: Steve Marcil on Oct 31, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Muir Valley access Details

Description

Bring your bouldering skills.

The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.

Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.

Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.

ouf.

P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route. Very very exciting.

Location

Towards the right-end of the cliff. Look for the route with the hardest start.

Protection

8 bolts, fixed draws to anchors.
befozz
  5.12b
befozz  
  5.12b
Even if you don't use the removable bolt below the clip the fall from above is not bad, I took the fall going for the hold above the clip and didn't come close to hitting the ramp. May 16, 2016
There is a mini bolt thing, don't know what it is called, before the scary clip. Takes a little spice out of that section, but you will have to bring your own draw to clip it. May 15, 2016
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
A great climb, but no where near as good as it's neighbor "Cell Block Six" and other climbs on the wall. A disproportionately hard start leads past some huge loose holds, to a rest, to a scary clip. I felt like I had to pass this clip and clip from above, which would put you near the ramp you just rested on if you fell. From there it is great climbing to the top. Nov 22, 2011