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Routes in Midnight Surf
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A Farewell to Arms S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Babyface S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cell Block Six S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crucible, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Iniquity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mellow Yellow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shiva S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Starfish and Coffee S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tapeworm S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tree Hugger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vortex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.73199, -83.64195 |
| FA: | Brad Weaver |
| Page Views: | 3,725 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | ChrisHau on Oct 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Climbing Area and a Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Preclip, and then launch into a little bouldery section leaving the ground. Long reaches between excellent jugs and slots eventually give way to a cramped, berry-filled coffin rest. Once you tire of staring at the rock six inches from your face, unwind out of the rest to a perch below the intimidatingly blank crux section.
An enormous undercling huck marks the beginning of the powerful crux sequence. A clip and then a huge lateral stab lead to some slightly-worse-than-you-want hooded edges, culminating in a leap for a glory jug. Enjoy the victory lap to the anchors.
Don't cheat yourself by detouring left of the crux - you'll be missing out on some of the most fun and gymnastic climbing on the Midnight Surf wall.
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