Avg: 3.9 from 14 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||2,128 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
Muir Valley access Details
Muir Valley is owned by Rick Weber, please respect the area. We are very fortunate to be allowed into the valley. Follow the trails, don't shortcut, use the bathrooms in the parking lot. don't leave ANYTHING behind (except maybe your skin and ego)
DescriptionTapeworm is the other "must-do" route at Midnight Surf, along with Cell Block Six, & Iniquity. However, Tapeworm (mostly*) lacks the no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors. The climbing is more of the same: huge moves between horizontal breaks, culminating in a big pump and a heart-breaking boulder problem just below the chains.
Begin up the fragile, left-facing flake. Easier moves lead between horizontal bands. Around the 3rd bolt, a difficult crimp move gains a good jug, and more long reaches. Rest at a big horn just above the 4th bolt. The first crux follows, a big dyno or thin cranking to reach the big horizontal pod below the 6th bolt. There's a blury picture of guidebook author Ray Ellington doing this move on the 2nd or 3rd page of the latest guidebook.
Pumpy moves lead up to one last rest before the redpoint crux: a difficult, boulder problem on rounded crimps, 5 feet below the anchor.
(*If you really want to turn a 4 star 12d into a 3 star 12c, there are apparently some no-hands options way out left).