Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Brad Weaver
Page Views: 2,502 total · 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Muir Valley access Details


Tapeworm is the other "must-do" route at Midnight Surf, along with Cell Block Six, & Iniquity. However, Tapeworm (mostly*) lacks the no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors. The climbing is more of the same: huge moves between horizontal breaks, culminating in a big pump and a heart-breaking boulder problem just below the chains.

Begin up the fragile, left-facing flake. Easier moves lead between horizontal bands. Around the 3rd bolt, a difficult crimp move gains a good jug, and more long reaches. Rest at a big horn just above the 4th bolt. The first crux follows, a big dyno or thin cranking to reach the big horizontal pod below the 6th bolt. There's a blury picture of guidebook author Ray Ellington doing this move on the 2nd or 3rd page of the latest guidebook.

Pumpy moves lead up to one last rest before the redpoint crux: a difficult, boulder problem on rounded crimps, 5 feet below the anchor.

(*If you really want to turn a 4 star 12d into a 3 star 12c, there are apparently some no-hands options way out left).


Immediately left of Cell Block Six. Note that the photos in the latest (2007) edition of the RRG guidebook are incorrect. This is the second route right of the big tree, beginning up a thin, 10' high, reddish flake.


~8 bolts, 2 BA. Stick clip recommended. There's a long run between the 1st & 2nd bolt, so heads up.


"...no-hands rests that ruin the continuity of its neighbors..."

Strange comment. Iniquity is the only route at the Surf that has a no-hands rest of any consequence. I guess you climb 12 feet of 5.8 to a no-hands, perhaps that what you are referring to? Oct 14, 2013
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
The jug you dyno to is one of the most ergonomic holds you will ever find on real rock. This route kicks ass, better than Cell Block (but both are great.) May 13, 2018