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The Sanctuary Rock Climbing
Routes in The Sanctuary
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Atlas Shrugged S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blue Collar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blue Sunday S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Budda Slept T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cherry Red S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Conquistador of the Crumbly T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cruxifixion S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dirty Old Men T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoosier Boys S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hot Gossip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Immaculate Deception S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jesus Wept S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Name Dropper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Peace Frog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Perfidious Deciduous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prometheus Unbound S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Elevation: | 1,076 ft |
| GPS: | 37.731, -83.634 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 45,881 total · 278/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $10 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
Primarily a steep sport climbing crag there are also a few really fun Trad lines here as well... The best of which would have to be first fall 5.9 just a nice crack climb on solid rock or you could hit the 5 star Buddha Slept 5.12a if you crank like that... The classic sport routes here are to name a few,Jesus Wept 5.12d, Triple Sec 5.13a and Immaculate Deception 5.12a(this last one isn't as brutally steep as the others...
When you arrive at the crag the first routes climb a super steep wall on Huecos but as you go around the corner to the right more routes appear these are less steep and more technical finally you get to First Fall the sweet crack that marks the end of The Sanctuary...
The sanctuary gets plenty of sun and some routes stay dry in the rain...Have Fun...
When you arrive at the crag the first routes climb a super steep wall on Huecos but as you go around the corner to the right more routes appear these are less steep and more technical finally you get to First Fall the sweet crack that marks the end of The Sanctuary...
The sanctuary gets plenty of sun and some routes stay dry in the rain...Have Fun...
Getting There
Take the North Trail behind the barn in the main parking lot. When the trail reaches the valley floor look straight across the road for a bridge with a sign marking the trailhead for several crags. Cross the bridge and make an immediate left and follow signs for the Sanctuary. At the top of the stairs make a right and you'll find yourself in the main amphitheater for Jesus Wept, Triple Sec, etc.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Sanctuary
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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