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Bibliothek Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Bibliothek

L › R R › L A › Z

	100 Years of Solitude S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	A Confederacy of Dunces S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	A Prayer for Owen Meany T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	All The Pretty Horses S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	American Psycho S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Demon Copperhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	East of Eden S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Everything That Rises Must Converge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Fury, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Giver, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lolita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	No Country for Old Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Resuscitation of a Hanged Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Short, Happy Life of Francis Macomber, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sound, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Stranger, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tea at the Palaz of Hoon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unbearable Lightness of Being, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Who Pooped in the Park? S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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Elevation:	1,055 ft	322 m
GPS:	37.73034, -83.64058 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

This area offers a slew of overhanging 5.11s that pack the classic Red River Gorge pump into 65-70 feet of climbing. An excellent training crag to gain endurance for steep 5.12s. The aspect of this wall offers afternoon shade making it an excellent summer crag to sweat off of jugs.

Getting There

Approach via the North Trail from the main parking lot. At the bottom of the North trail turn left onto the gravel valley floor road, stay right when the roads fork and cross a bridge paralleling the road. Find a sign in the next field and take the approach trail for Animal Crackers Wall, at the top of the hill turn left passing the small slab wall, Animal Crackers, and continuing along the cliff another few minutes, passing a large amphitheater, before arriving at the right side of Bibliotek.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bibliothek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 171 ● The Short, Happy Life of Francis… Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 205 ● 100 Years of Solitude Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 133 ● A Portrait of the Artist as a Yo… Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 38 ● No Country for Old Men Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 29 ● Tea at the Palaz of Hoon Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 88 ● The Unbearable Lightness of Being Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 18 ● Resuscitation of a Hanged Man Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 37 ● All The Pretty Horses Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 28 ● The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 112 ● The Fury Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 12 ● The Sound Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 26 ● Everything That Rises Must Converge Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 8 ● Demon Copperhead Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● The Stranger Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 10 ● Lolita Sport