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Bibliothek

Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

This area offers a slew of overhanging 5.11s that pack the classic Red River Gorge pump into 65-70 feet of climbing. An excellent training crag to gain endurance for steep 5.12s. The aspect of this wall offers afternoon shade making it an excellent summer crag to sweat off of jugs.

Getting There

Approach via the North Trail from the main parking lot. At the bottom of the North trail turn left onto the gravel valley floor road, stay right when the roads fork and cross a bridge paralleling the road. Find a sign in the next field and take the approach trail for Animal Crackers Wall, at the top of the hill turn left passing the small slab wall, Animal Crackers, and continuing along the cliff another few minutes, passing a large amphitheater, before arriving at the right side of Bibliotek.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
American Psycho
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Lolita
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
East of Eden
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
The Sound
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 119
The Fury
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Demon Copperhead
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
A Confederacy of Dunces
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 29
Tea at the Palaz of Hoon
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 134
A Portrait of the Artist as a Yo…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 89
The Unbearable Lightness of Being
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
No Country for Old Men
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 38
All The Pretty Horses
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Resuscitation of a Hanged Man
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Everything That Rises Must Converge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
The Stranger
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
The Short, Happy Life of Francis…
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
The Giver
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
Who Pooped in the Park?
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 210
100 Years of Solitude
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
A Prayer for Owen Meany
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
American Psycho
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lolita
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
East of Eden
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Sound
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Fury
 119
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Demon Copperhead
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
A Confederacy of Dunces
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tea at the Palaz of Hoon
 29
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Love Song of J. Alfred…
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
A Portrait of the Artist as…
 134
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Unbearable Lightness of…
 89
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
No Country for Old Men
 39
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
All The Pretty Horses
 38
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Resuscitation of a Hanged Man
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Everything That Rises Must…
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Stranger
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Short, Happy Life of Fr…
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Giver
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Who Pooped in the Park?
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
100 Years of Solitude
 210
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
A Prayer for Owen Meany
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A climber named Jordan busting out an interesting foot cam on the route. October 2010.
[Hide Photo] A climber named Jordan busting out an interesting foot cam on the route. October 2010.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] My new favorite crag at Muir. Awesome place and not a soul around! Nov 6, 2016
Beth Lyman
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] As of 5/28/18 there may be a bee's nest in one of the log benches (middle one) at the main wall here-we saw bee's flying in and out, and they were quite disturbed when we initially sat down and plopped down our gear. Keep an eye out and be delicate! May 28, 2018
DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY
[Hide Comment] Fun Fact: The Bibliothek/Persepolis cliffline was originally called Geezer's wall. Aug 15, 2024