Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tim Powers, Mike Susko - 2004
Page Views: 6,018 total · 45/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


312 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

Climb a low-angle slabby start to the more vertical wall. Ascend the steeper via reachy moves and big holds to the roof just before the anchors. Pull through the roof to arrive at the chains. Good route.

Location

The far right end of the wall. This is the third route from the right.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
Series of big moves in the middle which is the crux. All of the crux moves seem to be above a slab section. Top roof is easier than it looks... just slightly awkward. Big holds on this one. Apr 28, 2011
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10d
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.10d
Several big moves in a row on slightly overhanging face will have you burning as you try to clip and pull the last roof. Act like a Manimal and grunt through it. May 3, 2011
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Cody M   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Long route with fun climbing throughout. This was my favorite of the 10s on this wall, with a few big moves in a row that leave you decently pumped. May 14, 2012
Michael McClarty
  5.10+
Michael McClarty  
  5.10+
The big moves toward the middle can really take a toll on confident throws if youve exhausted and depleted the reserves. . . so hold on loosely and avoid lockoffs. Mar 20, 2013
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.10d
Best route on this wall. Can't recommend it more! Give it a go! Jul 4, 2015
none none  
 
Really fun route. Don't waste energy trying to use the crappy intermediates and just go for the throws in the middle crux section (it's good, I promise!) The middle section is a bit thought provoking for sure, but the top section of this climb eases up into really enjoyable climbing on jugs. Great feet throughout the whole climb as well. Jul 15, 2016
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.10a
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.10a
Great climb, best on the wall. IMO 10a, just as easy as Rat Stew. Nov 6, 2016
bluewaters182
  5.10d
bluewaters182  
  5.10d
Super fun, best on the wall! May 27, 2018